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Female Beauty;
OR,
THE ART OF HUMAN DECORATIOK
By Dr. A. CAZENAYE.
AND
The Art of Pleasii^G:
By ERNEST FEYDEAU.
Translated from the Original French^ By Miss M. T. NASH.
"Le beau s'adresse a Tame, Le joli s'adresse au gout."
NEW YORK; G. JV. Carleton & Co,^ Publishers.
PARIS: DENTU. M.DCCC.LXXIV.
Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1874, by
a. W. CARLETON & CO., In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington.
Maclauchlan, Printer and Stereotyper, 56, 58 & GO Park St., N. Y.
HAROLD B. LEE LIBRARY
fiRtGHAM YOi!;\;..^ ur>'!'/F.nsiTV
PROVO. UTAH
COiN'TEKFTS.
:o:
CHAP. ' PAGE
Preface 7
I. — Beauty in Geneeal 15
The Face 22
The Complexion 25
The Hair. 34
The Forehead 52
The Nose 57
The Eyebrows 61
The Eyes 65
The Eyelashes 69
The Ears 71
The Mouth and Teeth 73
The Cheeks 84
The Chin 86
n. — Gracefulness 88
The Face— Resumed 88
The Form 91
The Neck 92
The Shoulders 93
6 CONTENTS.
CHAP. PAGE
The Chest 93
The Waist 97
The Arms 100
The Hands 100
The Nails 102
. The Legs 114
The Feet 115
The Figure 134
III.— The Skin 128
Perspiration 146
IV.— Obesity 152
Leanness. . : 158
V. — Beauty — Kesumed 161
VI. — Cosmetics 169
VII.— Hygiene 175
VIII. — Perfumes and Odoks. , 191
IX. — Cosmetics — Resumed 198
For the Skin 198
For the Hair 204
For the Mouth 209
For the Hands 211
X. — Various Perfumes 213
For Baths. 214
PREFACE.
EAUTY has at all times 'been a tlieme 'W^ of song for poets. It has always been the object of passionate adoration by artists ; while observers, philosophers, and scholars have also, in all ages, made it the subject of serious study. Men eminent by their merit have given this question a large place in their writings ; and they did not confine themselves to defining that quality as one of the most precious gifts that Heaven has given to mankind, but they often inves- tigated what means would best preserve cor- poral beauty and render it complete, and in some cases supply its deficiency. Go as far
8 PBEFAGE.
as you may in history, and one finds traces of the cultivation of beauty — a species of al- chemic cosmetic which has rendered a mul- titude of adepts very celebrated. Mythology tells of Circe, daughter of the Sun, so skilful in the art of modifying the human exterior by her artifices, that she passed for an en- chantress ; of Medea, who had such marvel- lous secrets for re-establishing a resemblance to beauty, that one can say of her, she re- juvenated the father of Jason. The heroic times furnish us other celebrated names in that art, which, twenty centuries ago, they had already pushed to the most exaggerated limits of refinement. These names belong mostly to the women who played so brilliant a role in the old societies of Gfreece and Kome. We cite Aspasia, one of the most charming models of Attic grace. This beautiful Phor- cienne has united in a book, cited by Aetius, a certain number of prescriptions, dedicated to women who were anxious to augment and preserve their beauty, some of which are in- spired by an exact knowledge of hygiene, and merit to be preserved by tradition. They
PREFACE. 9
refer especially to the nse of Ibaths, lotions, a choice of clothing, and certain habits of domestic life. After ^'Aspasia," one must cite Cleopatra, to whom is attributed a little work dedicated to women, containing a large number of recipes for cosmetics. The fathers of medicine did not disdain to give a place in their writings to this science, so often dishonored by quacks. Here and there are noticed the curious ideas of Moschion, Her- aclitus of Tarentum, Aetius, and Galen. The question was often discussed if the art of preserving beauty was essentially and ex- clusively the domain of quackery ; or if, on the contrary, it touched medicine in certain limits, or even took an important place in it. Doubt is impossible on this point, if one consults very serious authorities, who have declared its rationality and scientific value, which may be called the treatment of beauty. Without doubt, a great number of works written on this subject have only occasioned the employment of useless, if not dangerous, drugs. This circumstance is to be regretted. The desire to renew faded charms, or hide
10 PREFACE.
the elements of natural ugliness, is as old as the civilized world, and has at all times provoked quackery. Is it not astonishing, in spite of the blame men animated "by the love of morality and humanity have laid against it, that its excessive use con- tinues and prevails to the present day ? The fathers of the church have said all in their power against the use of artifices for the toilette, which women use with a veritable passion. Tertullian treated those practices as diabolical by which so many matrons were so skilful in coloring their lips, whiten- ing their skin, and animating the brilliancy of their eyes by blackening the lids. The same passion is found in ''Rules for Young Ladies," by Cyprian and Basil Le Grand, but above all in the teaching of Clement of Alexandria, where one may read the ex- cessive use of cosmetics, and if one reflects on the composition of most of the lotions and pomades prepared for the toilette, they would understand how just are the protesta- tions contained in his work. However, it would be almost impossible to enumerate all
PREFACE, 11
the strange compositions found in drugs more or less unhealthy, and reproduced for centuries. It is from that inexhaustible source is taken at all times so much unre- strained quackery ; but it is there also that is found the cause of so much renown attrib- uted to the most of these productions, not to speak of the difficulties belonging to their employ, and the complicated composition that appears really monstrous. But, in spite of all these causes, it is not to be doubted that the art of cosmetics is important as regards health. In fact, true beauty cannot exist without health ; if health fails, beauty fades. There is then occasion for serious medical treatment. Among the specialists who have occupied themselves with the embellishments of the human body, first to be cited is Mer- curiali, who wrote a very serious, remark- ably able, and original work. It is evident that this work served as a model for others written during his time, such as those of Ville- neuf, Fioramenti, Argelata, etc. This new work on ''Humto Decoration" is destined to supply an important blank in a science re-
12 PBEFACB,
plete witli interest, wants, and legitimate de- sires. It is written in a simple, methodical form, easy to consult, placing witMn reach of everybody the means of beautifying the human form. Only such rules are given which long experience and complete knowl- edge have shown to be useful ; and authors who have written the most complete works on human embellishment have followed nearly the same plan, studying, one by one, all parts of the human body, commencing with the head, the principal seat of beauty. After general considerations on beauty, our series of remarks on embellishment will commence with the head, examining its different parts thus : the complexion, hair, forehead, ears, eyes,, nose, mouth, and chin. We will then study the trunk, which comprises the neck, shoulders, chest, armpits, back, waist, etc. The members that come after, are the arms, wrists, hands, nails, thighs, legs, feet, and toes. We propose to explain in a special chapter the embellishment of the skin in general ; natural exhalations, corpulence, thinness, and the means of remedying them,
PBEFACE. 13
comlDined with a few remarks on cosmetics, perfumes, etc. Ancient prescriptions merit a general reproach, for sinning by the multi- plicity of their recipes and affectation. To resume, ''human decoration" is the domain of medical practice and family habits. It is addressed at the same time to physicians and people of the world. In this work, the resources are indicated for embellishing every part of the body, in the most simple and agreeable form possible, without trouble, and especially without danger to the health. Its object is intended to meet the require- ments of all natural wants and necessities. We hope that this book will merit the con- fidence and gratitude of all persons for whom it is designed, without losing in the eyes of any one the object of an earnest work.
PERSONAL BEAUTY.
CHAPTER I.
BEAUTY IN GENERAL
ITS MEANING, ITS DIFFERENCE AND VALUE.
FEMALE BEAUTY.
^^
^:
t Socrates called it a short tyranny; uM^ PlatOj tlie privilege of Nature. Abso- lute beauty, which appears possible to define, has been the object of a certain num- ber of prescriptions, which render more or less agreeable the idea attached to it. Plato considered beauty the harmony of the soul with the mind ; Aristotle, as united to a cer-
16 FEMALE BEAUTY.
tain grandeur, abstract and ideal. Galilian, considering it more explicit and more mate- rial, sought beauty in a conformity of mem- bers, high colors, soft flesh, a certain elasticity of form, and harmony of traits. The most eminent philosophers have tried to bring for- mulas for physical beauty to exact rules. Among modern authors who occupy them- selves with this arduous matter, one finds very explicit formulas. Thus Albert Diirer and Mercuriali — one an artist, the other a physician — considered a good disposition re- sulting from a perfect constitution as beauty. Fallope pressed the question closer ; for him, beauty was a natural state of the body, a habitude consistent in the harmony of sub- stance, disposition, form, and color. The sentiment of beauty varies according to taste and prejudice. The Orientals, among whom idleness is an honor, think a fleshy woman the highest type of female beauty ; while Occidental nations generally prefer slight- ness of form, and grace of expression. Beauty varies according to age and sex. In youth it reveals a particular freshness, in-
FEMALE BEAUTY. I7
gennousness, and gentleness, not to be found in adult age. Here • beauty has attractions that speak above all to the senses. In old age, on the contrary, it addresses itself to the mind, by its air of gravity and dignity.
"Vermilion lips, well shaped, a smiling mouth, beautiful white teeth, an elastic step, plump cheeks, charm at eighteen," said the philosopher Diderot. ''To-day it is a timid young girl walking in silence with her mother, that attracts and charms me. Who has the best taste 1 Is it I at eighteen ? Is it I at fifty 1 Fine question ! At eighteen it is not the image of beauty, but the physi- ognomy of pleasure, which attracts me."
Manly beauty consists in dignity of char- acter, force, and pride, the traits firm and decided. In woman it is principally grace that predominates : her form is finer and more delicate ; her traits are distinguished by harmony of the lineaments, her fbrm by its grace. Philosophers sought to establish a correlative between the corporal constitu- tion of both sexes, and said woman' s body is more rounded, more flexible, and smoother
18 FEMALE BEAUTY.
than man' s ; lier mnscles are less apparent, more delicate, and mor^ supple. Her senti- ments are finer, and her sensibility keener. Man is just the contrary. In a moral sense, he is grave, resolute, and tenacious ; bears bodily fatigue much easier than woman. Beauty varies according to the time, the people, the taste, and prejudices. Yet the most eloquent tongues have failed to find an exact definition of this most charming attri- bute of human nature. To find a formula that will satisfy all opinions, it should bei composed of all instincts, sentiments, pas- sions, that give birth to the cultivation of beauty. That is simply impossible ; beauty, from a general point of view, is a harmoni- ous ensemble. The principal elements that serve to form it all are : a just proportion of all the members, transparency of the skin, and freshness of color. These qualities only make a beautiful statue. To find the celes- tial fire that animates it, must be added the expression of sentiments refiected from the soul beaming in the look, the smile, the actionSj and even the accent. But what
FEMALE BEAUTY. 19
characterizes beanty above all^ and gives it irresistible power, is grace ; with its indefinite charm it is nothing, yet it is all. Beauty is the flower, and grace the perfume. The question of beauty was pushed so far, that Xenophore said that the possession of beauty was above that of science, fortune, virtue, and all the advantages with which mankind could be favored. This is an exaggeration that we will leave entirely to poets and ar- tists ; but for philosophers and serious ob- servers, it is none the less true, that beauty is one of the most beautiful gifts that Heaven has given mankind. V/ithout doubt the qualities of the heart and mind have an in- contestable excellence ; but in point of view of human perfection, their value is incom- plete without beauty. On the contrary, nothing more perfect can be imagined, nor give a better idea of the divine essence of man, than beauty of body united to good- ness of heart, elevation of mind, and purity of soul.
If, in mythology, Juno, Venus, and Mi- nerva disputed, it was not for a question of
20 FEMALE BEAUTY,
power, but a question of charms. All the great heroes were types of superhuman "beauty. Homer used all the resources of his epic muse to paint Hector and Achilles with almost divine charms. Antiquity rep- resents the Indian Bacchus as a type. His- tory informs us that Achideanus, king of Lacedsemonia, was condemned by his people to a heavy fine for having married a little ugly woman, who could not bear fine chil- dren. They wanted great, handsome men to sustain and command the republics and empires.
But apart from these examples, the influence of beauty is seen and felt every- where. In woman above all, it has the power of exercising an influence over those that come in contact with it, and is for her the most precious of all gifts, for it gives her a moral force that defies all physical weakness. We may say it per- suades better than eloquence, and shares with morality the power of inspiring senti- ment. It is then principally to woman we address our counsels. Our task is great, for
FEMALE BEAUTY. 21
we have not only to tell her how to preserve her beauty, but inform those to whom nature has refused, or illness deprived of, their charms, the means of supplying them. To arrive surely at this end, we must impress this first truth : that the foundation of cor- poral beauty is health.
In effect, take the latter, and the former alters, fades, and disappears. The duty of the physician is then to seek to re-establish the pathological state, which is so often for beauty a source of obliteration and ruin.
Particular care follows — which is of great importance in a double point of view — as to what must be done, and what must be left undone.
Under this heading, I propose to study preservation and embellishment of the body in all points that touch beauty, especially those parts that are constantly exposed to view, and require the most particular care.
22 TEE FACE,
THE FACE.
All harmonious expressions are united in the human jBgure. — St. Pierre.
*' A beautiful face is the finest of all spectacles."
IHE head is particularly the seat of heaiity. On the face dwells I know not what, that charms and attracts US. We admire a pretty foot, are struck by an elegant waist : a well-made arm, a pretty hand, captivates our attention ; but we are never so strongly attracted by any part of the body as by the face. All other organs bear a general resemblance, but in the face there is a vast difference ; each countenance has its particular type of beauty.
The face is the seat of that inexplicable expression that draws heart to heart and soul to soul. Liebaut said: '^We kiss the hand of the woman we love with respect, but it is always with a sentiment of affection that we kiss the face."
True beauty in general does not result from the perfect form of one or two members,
THE FACE. 23
but in the harmony of all. It is the air and physiognomy that attract or repulse us. For those who read the face it may well be called the mirror that reflects the purity of soul, the elevation of the mind, goodness of heart, all charms, modesty, pride, benevo- lence, friendship ; but above all, love — true love — is written in the traits of the phys- iognomy.
Lavater cites a passage from '^Clarissa Harlowe" on the remarkable j^tz^.s^^ of Miss Howe on the physiognomies that Solmes, Hickmann, and Lovelace must have had at college. 'Til tell you the lights in which Hickmann, Solmes, and Lovelace, our three heroes, have appeared to me, supposing them boys at school. Solmes I have imag- ined to be a little sordid, pilfering rogue, who would purloin from everybody and beg everybody's bread and butter from him, while, as I have heard a reptile brag, he would on a winter' s morning spit upon his thumbs and spread his own with it, that he might keep it all to himself. Hickmann, a great overgrown, lank-haired, chubby boy,
24: THE FACE.
wlio would Ibe' hunched and punched Iby everybody, and go home with his fingers in his eye and tell his mother. While Love- lace I have supposed a curly-pated villain, full of fire, fancy, and mischief; an orchard rohher, a wall-climber, a horse-rider, with- out saddle or bridle, neck or nothing; a sturdy rogue in short, who would kick and cuff, and do no right and take no wrong of anybody ; would get his head broke, then a plaster for it, or let it heal of itself, while he went on to do more mischief, and if not to get, to deserve, broken bones."
And the same dispositions have grown up with them and distinguished them as men, with no natural alteration.
THE COMPLEXION. 25
THE COMPLEXIOK
La beante la plus reguliere ne saurait me scduire, si la fraicheur, la pureto, I'eclat de son teint, ne s'animent d'un rayon de jeunesse et de sante. — L. Camus.
f HE most perfect Ibeauty is unattractive
when freshness and health are gone- Several circumstances unite to give great value to the physiognomy. One of the first conditions of beauty of face is beauty of complexion.
Diderot, the philosopher, said, '^I have seen in the Faubourg children the most charming faces at twelve and thirteen years of age : eyes full of gentleness, intrepid and ardent, the neck round and full of muscles, the cheeks plump ; yet at times I have seen the pretty mouth strangely altered, the neck covered with wrinkles, and the whole phys- iognomy changed, either from exposure, anger, or other causes. One cannot begin too early the education of children. I have known families in which one word of com- mand was severely followed: there was 2
26 THE complexion:
never any anger, never a loud word pro- nounced, before the children."
There is always a certain amount of deli- cacy, more or less great, according to the individual, and there are certain thick skins, on which the emotions of the soul reflect themselves in an unappreciable manner to the sight.
A beautiful complexion is agreeable when the colors of the skin, white, vermilion, pure, tender, and polished, are accessible to the modifications produced by the impres- sions of the soul, without being easily altered by emotion.
This delicacy of complexion belongs ex- clusively to women.
One of the best means to preserve beauty of tint is to avoid as much as possible all occasions which sooner or later trouble the mind ; to accustom one' s self early to resist demonstrative emotions, either of great joy or sorrow.
Generally speaking, cold air is a mortal enemy of the complexion : nevertheless there aTe exceptions with persons of high color.
THE COMPLEXION. 27
wlio support it easily ; while those of a pale tint find themselves better in warm air.
The manner of living in point of view of alimentation has a great influence on the complexion, because there is an intimate relation between the state of the stomach and the tint of the complexion. Persons of high color spoil their complexion by using irritating aliments.
Others fall into the excess of eating insufli- cient, hoping to preserve freshness of com- plexion ; they only injure their stomach, and give themselves a pale, bluish tint.
Even tight clothes have an important influ- ence on the complexion. From what I have said, it will be easily understood that in the observance of hygienic rules will be found the best means of preserving the delicacy and purity of the complexion.
It is well not to give the stomach all it craves. Persons subject to a rush of blood to the head should eat plain food and avoid all stimulating drinks, such as pu.re wines, liquors, etc. For those of a pale complexion it is quite the contrary.
23 THE COMPLEXION.
Many are in tlie habit of taking something strengthening in the morning, and sleep after- wards. This is wrong. A glass of cold water taken on rising and fast an hour after, is very good.
Many take injections to preserve freshness of complexion. It is an evident exaggeration, "but quite harmless when not abused.
As to the general rules of hygiene, they are applicable here. To sleep too much is as bad as not to sleep enough. A too active life has as many disadvantages as a too inac- tive one.
We have seen frequent alterations pro- duced by tan and sunburn. Various means are proposed as protection against them, among^ which are a number of lotions and pomades.
A veil is an excellent article. That which I prefer most is a little pure rice powder or pulverized starch, or one of the following mixtures :
starch. -^ 1 pound.
Sub-nitrate of Bismuth 3 ounces.
THE COMPLEXION. 29
ROSE POWDER.
Rice Powder 2 pounds.
Lake Carmine 4 drachms.
Essence of Eose 18 grains.
Essence of Santal 18 grains.
Mix well.
Spread it on the face witli a hare' s foot, or, Ibetter still, a tuft of down.
The simplest protection for the face from cold air is a veil. Avoid sitting too close to the fire or in the sun.
Wet the face as little as possible. Lotions should never be hot nor cold ; tepid are best. There are certain skins that can only be cleaned with powder.
How many women have preserved a fresh, delicate, transparent complexion, who scarce- ly ever wet it !
I shall say the same of greasy substances, pomades, etc. We shall see later they are only to be used in exceptional cases. For still stronger reasons every kind of paint should be avoided: La Bruyere says : ' ' If women wish to appear beautiful only in their own eyes, they may follow their own taste in
30 THE COMPLEXION.
ornament ; ' ' but if they wish to please the men, he declares that red and white make them hideous.
!N'ow, if we seek means to remedy the alteration of the complexion, we shall find much greater difficulties, because it is sub- ject to very different inqidries ; consequently needs different means to remedy it.
We have already spoken of the aid which health naturally furnishes to those who de- sire purity of complexion.
I will not return again to the value of general means. I cannot, however, resist declaring that two therapeutic agents quite d la mode are enemies of the complexion. I allude to sea-bathing and iron. I do not con- clude that one should never have recourse to them, nor should sacrifice however little of the health for beauty ; but I am influenced by a long experience not to advise the indifferent use of these methods of restoration, and es- pecially not to abuse them, as is often the case.
As to local means, they -are naturally very different and variable, according to the con- stitution and alteration of the skin.
THE COMPLEXION. 31
The following formulas may be used :
Bichloride Hydrargyria 2 grains.
Chlorhydrate Ammonia 2 grains.
Milk of Almonds i pint.
This is one of the best cosmetics for the complexion, especially for fine, delicate skins, that are sometimes slightly farinaceous, and cannot bear any kind of greasy substance.
This liquid is employed in a pure state, with a fine linen rag. If necessary, it may be mixed with an equal portion of water ; that is, should it prove irritating for an exces- sively delicate skin. In any case, it should be used with great care.
CMorate of Potash 18 grains.
Glycerine 1 ounce.
Rose-water \ pint.
Mix carefully for lotions.
For those whose skin is greasy and inclined to pimples —
Bicarbonate of Soda, 18 grains.
Distilled Water , ^ pint.
Essence of Portugal 6 drops.
32 THE COMPLEXION,
The face may also be washed with elder water, weak tea, distilled linden water, milk of almonds, virginal milk.
Virginal Milk
Rose-water 1 pint.
Tincture of Benzoin 1 drachm.
Mix the water slowly with the tincture.
In general, lotions for the face should be made of a mild temperature. A lotion too cold is as prejudicial to the complexion as one too warm.
It is better to mix them in the evening, scarcely drying the face when applied. In the morning wipe gently with a linen rag dipped in pure water and cologne.
When the skin is dry, rough, and one wishes to eiface spots, pomades are recom- mended, either of cold cream or cucumber.
The following are excellent :
POMADE FOR THE COMPLEXION*
Oil of Bitter Almonds 1 scruple.
Spermaceti 1 drachm, 2 scruples.
Galien Cerate 1 ounce.
TEE COMPLEXION. 33
POMADE.
Oil of Bitter Almonds ,.^..., 1 drachm.
Fresh Butter 4 drachms.
Lard 4 drachms.
Mutton Suet 2 drachms.
Wash in rose-water, and add wax, sufficient quan- tity.
POMADE FOR PIMPLES.
Bicarbonate of Soda 2 scruples.
Glycerine 1 drachm.
Spermaceti Pomade 1 ounce.
Mix.
POMADE FOR GREASY COMPLEXION.
Acetate of Zinc 2 grains.
Cold Cream 1 ounce.
Essence of Roses , 10 drops.
Lotions like pomades should t)e employed at night, and always moderately. Lotions may be employed in the morning, especially if a pomade has been used the night previous. . Another means of preserving freshness of complexion is the use of pastes, applied to the face in the form of a mask during the night, and is taken off in the morning with a
little cervil water.
3*
34 THE HAIR.
MASK FOR THE FACE.
Barley Flour, sifted 3 oiinces.
Honey 1 ounce, 1 scruple.
White of Egg 1 scruple.
Mix as a paste.
ANOTHER.
White Wax 1 ounce.
Sweet Almond Oil 2 ounces.
Goat's Grease 1 ounce.
Powdered Starch 2 scruples.
Make a pomade and anoint the face at night.
THE HAIR.
IHE ancients, who were passionate lovers of beautiful forms, attached great importance to the hair ; for it held in itself a question of beauty, and was for them the source and occasion of a great number of ingenious myths, which pleased them much. To-day there is no one who does not feel that the form and color of the hair gives various expressions to the face.
TEE HAIR. 35
If "we cite here and' there examples of dis- dain for the care of the hair (the Hiber- nians let their hair grow, and nsed it to wipe their hands when soiled by ignoble repasts), in general we find everywhere the same love, the same culture of it, often exaggerated. Women, especially, have at all times at- tached an idea of beauty to the hair, which is betrayed by all the refinements of luxury and toilette. Guy on, speaking of corporal beauty, says of the hair: *^0n the front it should be crimped and curled, and of me- dium length for men ; for women, long, thick, of a golden color, wavy and glisten- ing." A woman's hair is beautiful when long and abundant, and falls in soft, silky tresses. Certain colors are more or less pre- ferred. To-day we do not think of the god- dess of beauty, except with hair falling in heavy masses to her feet.
ISTatural curls have all the charms for us which the ancients accorded to them. Only the artists of the middle ages, deluded by enthusiasm for a severe creed, imagine for their types of seraphic beauty, stiff", smooth
ge THE EAIB.
hair framing the face, and not a single wave to relieved its immovable sanctimoniousness.
As to the most beautiful color of the hair, it is now a point very much contested, and it would be very bold to pretend to establish the superiority of one shade above another. It was not the same in ancient times, and if one listens to tradition, which is rarely wrong, it is permissible to believe that golden blonde was in those times what might be called the privileged color.
The most beautiful ancient types, Achilles, Menelaus, Meleager, were blondes. Bacchus, the ideal of ancient beauty, had golden hair. The handsome Narcissus, the favorite of Apollo, was a pale, melancholy blonde. Or- pheus, in the picture which he paints of Circe, the redoubtable enchantress, represented her with hair as ardent as the rays of the sun. Catullus sang of the golden locks of Berenice.
The fair Phoebus is a type become com- monplace. At Rome, golden hair was par- ticularly in favor. Messalina hid her beau- tiful black hair under a yellow wig.
*' Nigrum flavo crinem abscondente galero."— JuvENAli.
THE HAIR. 37
There were, neyertlieless, certain exceptions to this taste of the ancients. The Egyptians, and generally the Arabs, affected a great disdain for blonde hair. Apulus praises in the beautiful Photes her hair black as ebony. Horace celebrated Lycidas with black hair and eyes. Solomon, the wisest of kings, and grand amateur of beauty, praises in his well- beloyed her locks black and brilliant as a raven's wing. Descending to our own times, we see that in part, perhaps the epoch in which we live, the red blonde, so dear to the ancients, has retained the artistic and poet- ical value with which it was then sur- rounded.
Whatever it may be, having been an au- rora for infancy, the hair adds to the dignity and majesty of mankind. It relieves and sur- rounds happily all that there is attractive and beautiful in a female face ; even for old age, it is one of the most forcible reasons for respect. Therefore one can understand the interest and importance of keeping it in a healthy condition.
The head becomes gray and bald at an
38 [ THE EAIR.
early age on account of trouble, excessive labor, and late hours ; sudden fright, violent grief, and moral emotions. Adrian cites the fact that during the reign of Louis XYI., a gentleman of the court was surprised in the garden with the maid of honor, and being condemned to death for it, was so struck by the terrible sentence, that his hair became white during the night. A similar phenom- enon is that of St. Yalier, who became sud- denly gray on learning that his daughter, Diana de Poitiers, had become the mistress of the king.
The hair becomes white and falls, if the constitution is deteriorated by suffering, pri- vation, imprisonment, or living in a dark and damp atmosphere. To avoid sorrow and grief, is not in the power of all ; nevertheless, to a certain extent, we should not allow our sorrow to weigh us down too heavily.
Many ladies are in the habit of doing their hair up very tight ; it is a bad habit, because it fatigues the scalp and injures the bulb. Crimping, curling, and braiding the hair have the effect of weakening the roots.
THE HAIR. 39
l^eyer use a hot iron. It dries the scalp, "burns the skin, breaks the hair, and alters its electric functions. Simplicity is the most be- coming ornament for the hair. The coiffure most becoming to women is to wear the hair slightly frizzed and arranged in bands, in such a manner as to permit the air to pene- trate.
Loosen it night and morning, brush it with care and roll it loosely. If obliged to draw or knot it tightly, take care to leave it loose a few moments night and morning.
Among the exigencies of the toilet are cos- metics, whose use is often fruitless and some- times dangerous, on account of their compo- sition, and especially their untimely applica- tion.
I have seen many persons who have pre- served an abundant head of hair for years, without use of anything but brush and comb. There are, however, many who, be it fancy, custom, or desire to preserve the hair, have recourse to different compositions, which they use indiscriminately, and by a bad choice excite that which they wish to avoid.
40 ^JS"-^ HAIR
Thus with some the hair is habitually dry, and the absence or the diminution of the secretion designed to moisten it, causes it to lose its natural brilliancy, and break easily. If (as occurs too often) one is in the habit of wetting the hair to render it soft and fresh for a time, it makes it still drier, more liable to break and fall oif.
In general it is a bad habit to dip the head in cold water morning or night. This remark is more applicable to men than to women. It causes baldness.
Before leaving this subject, I will add that cold baths, and particularly sea-bathing, are enemies of the hair. Some people not only lose their hair, but break and tangle it very easily.
The best and most simple formula is the following :
Beef Marrow, prepared 1 ounce.
Bitter Almond Oil 3 drachms.
Mix.
Take care to anoint the hair at the roots.
TEE HAIR. 41
I also cite anotlier, tliat experience bids me recommend :
Beef Marrow 2 ounces.
Almond Oil li ounce.
Essence of Lemon 1 drachm.
ANOTHEK.
Oil of Roses 2 ounces.
Oil of Vanilla 1 ounce.
Oil of Jessamine 2 drachms.
Oil of Tuberoses 2 drachms.
Oil of Orange Flower 2 drachms.
Essence of Almonds 1 drop.
This oil, besides cleaning the hair, renders it soft and brilliant.
An abnndant secretion leaves dandruff on the scalp, which the nse of cosmetics only in- creases. For those whose hair is naturally oily, they should abstain from all kinds of pomades and oils. Brush it carefully night and morning, and use a wash.
The following lotions are excellent :
Water ^ pint.
Carbonate of Soda , . 1 drachm.
Dissolve, and add the yolks of two eggs well beaten.
42 ' THE HAIR.
ANOTHER.
Chlorate of Potash 2 scruples.
Rose-water -J pint.
Dissolve.
ANOTHER.
Borate of Soda 2 scruples.
Distilled Water ^ pint.
Essence of Portugal 18 grains.
ANOTHER.
Ammonia Liquid 18 grains.
Eose-water ^ pint.
To be used in the morning.
OIL FOR THE HAER.
Oil a la Rose 2 ounces.
Oil a la Vanilla 1 ounce.
Oil a la Jessamine 2 drachms.
Oil a la Tuberose 2 drachms.
Oil a la Orange Flower 2 drachms.
Essence of Almonds 1 drop.
Essence of Cloves 1 drop.
This oil is excellent ; besides cleansing, it gives a beautiful lustre.
It is not necessary to advise those who wish to preserve their hair, to avoid all the common preparations that flood the country. There is nothing easier than to preserve the
THE EAIB. 4,3
hair, if one will take pains and coml) it regularly. Hygienic practice consists in using a fine-tooth comb, separating the hair, and carefully brushing it with a hard brush, so as to excite the bulbs. This should be done particularly on retiring.
Liquid of ammonia and rose-water is an excellent lotion in the morning. This, as well as other prescriptions, should only be used when absolutely necessary, and in any case moderately employed.
For keeping the head clean and preserving the hair, a good stiff brush and comb are the simplest means. An excellent thing for the growth of the hair is to cut the ends from time to time. Mothers often cut the hair of their daughters in second youth, fearing that it may not grow so abundantly if cut when younger. This is an error. The most beau- ful hair I have ever seen was never touched by the scissors.
The Greeks and Romans had great admira- tion for the hair of their children ; they re- garded it as a robe of innocence.
When full-grown men cut their hair, a
44: TEE HAIR.
solemn ceremony took place among them. Until tlien (the poet said) ''they would have dishonored the spring-time of their lives." What I have just said is applicable to such mothers who sacrifice the hair of their daughters, and cut it because of its slow growth. Some even shave the hair, be it from sickness or other causes. I do not approve of this. It may be useful from time to time when the hair is too abundant, be- gins to fall, and fatigues the child. In any case shaving is better than cutting. It often occurs under the influence of age, men par- ticularly become bald ; but it should not com- mence before the fiftieth year of life. Some are prematurely so, be it from excess of grief, labor, or hereditary. It is generally incur- able, notwithstanding there are innumerable compositions, all infallible in name. Never- theless a great number may be tried without disadvantage. Bear's grease was recom- mended by Cleopatra, to make the hair grow ; but I should never finish if I were to give here a complete list of the curious prep- arations invented for its growth.
THE HAIR 45
I will content myself witli citing a few that may l3e used with a good result.
Beef Marrow 1 ounce.
Aromatic Tincture 1 drachm.
Mix.
For washing the head, dip a little linen cloth in the following liquids :
Tincture of Sulphate of Quinine. . . . )
equal parts, X mcture i
Mix.
Aromatic Tincture i
Ammonia Liquid 1 drachm.
Essence of Bitter Almonds 2 scruples.
Spirits of Eosemary 1 ounce.
Bose-water 3 gills.
Wash the head once a day.
CASTOR OIL FOR THE HAIR.
Pomade a la Rose 4 ounces.
Castor Oil 2 ounces.
Oil of Almonds ^ 2 ounces.
Essence of Bergamot 2 scruples.
Mix.
ROSEMARY OIL.
Oil of Almonds 1 ounce.
Spirits of Rosemary 1 ounce.
Oil of Nutmeg 18 grains.
46 THE HAIB.
La wry said, ''It is a rare thing to see a man entirely bald recover a full growth of hair." In a hygienic point of view, there are many excellent cosmetics that produce the desired effect when age is not the result. There are also means of preventing its fall, and preserving what remains on the head ; yet there are certain cases where the loss is irreparable, and that Nature alone can remedy. In all ages, dyeing the hair was a common practice. Pliny cites a great num- ber of cosmetic preparations employed among the Romans.
. . . " Coma turn matatur lut annos dissimulet mridi cartice tineta nucisy — Tibullus.
Myrtle baths were said to prevent bald- ness ; also bear' s oil in that as well as the present day. It was said to preserve the hair and make it grow.
Medea, the enchantress, who had the gift of rejuvenating, was probably a habile prac- titioner in the art of dyeing the hair.
Golden hair was then in vogue as in modern times, and the most extraordinary prescriptions were given, from a crow's liver
THE HAIR. 47
to a swallow's dung, — and others equally curious.
Blonde hair is an appanage of a lymphatic temperament, and generally accompanies fine white skin, blue eyes, and a soft, gentle gait.
Black hair belongs to a bilious tempera- ment and nervous disposition, and shadows a skin lightly dark, black, lively eyes, and a severe, proud gait.
E,ed hair accompanies a particular consti- tution, notwithstanding it is a blonde type. The skin of red-haired persons has a trans- parent freshness, and a sort of limpidity that belongs exclusively to that kind of hair. Should any one undertake to color red hair black, what expression would the eyes, so soft and languid, have with it ? Experience has sufficiently established, that the prepara- tions employed for dyeing the hair are not always free from danger. It is true these dangers have often been exaggerated. For instance, it is difficult to believe that a leaden comb poisons the hair, yet such is the result. I have seen the scalp in a dreadful state from
48 THE HAIR.
tlie use of a strong dye. I have seen men and women dye their gray hair and render it purple. I have also seen ladies in despair who wished to turn their black ringlets into golden ones, obtain only a pale yellow, or a brick red. There is no doubt these strong dyes are injurious in the extreme : they break the hair, burn the scalp, and cause baldness. In spite of these results their use is continued.
For centuries their dangers have been ex- posed by excellent practitioners, and yet their use has not diminished in the least.
To-day, as in the time of Aspasia and Cleo- patra, the means of embellishment are sought at any price, and no one thinks of addressing that question of Augustus to his daughter :
" Aimerais-tu mieux etre chauve que blanclie? "
I can recommend with confidence the fol- lowing pomades :
POMADE TO DYE THE HAIR BLACK. '
White Wax 4 ounces.
Olive Oil 9 ounces.
Let them dissolve, and add — Burnt cork. 3 ounces.
TEE HAIR 49
ANOTHER.
Powdered Nitrate of Silver 12 grains.
Chlorohydrate of Ammonia 12 grains.
Fresh Lard 2 ounces.
Oil of Roses '..... 8 drops.
Use once a day as pomade.
POWDER TO DYE THE HAIR BROWN.
Litharge 3 ounces.
Slacked Lime 1 ounce.
Starch 1 ounce.
Solution of Potash 2 drachms.
Make a homogeneal powder.
Make a paste with clear water, and apply to the head with the aid of a little brush. Cover the head with a silk night-cap, and at the end of six hours wash the hair.
POI^IADE TO DYE THE HAIR BLACK.
Nitrate of Silver 4 drachms.
Proto-nitrate of Mercury 4 drachms.
Distilled Water 1 giU.
Let it dissolve, and strain it ; add a suffi- cient quantity of water to obtain a solution of five ounces.
Make a paste with a sufficient quantity of starch ; bathe the hair with caution. This
3
/■
50 THE HAIR
is done on retiring. Wear a silk night-cap, and in the morning wash the hair and use any greasy substance desired.
LOTION TO PREVENT GRAY HAIR.
Vin Rouge , 2 ounces.
Sulphate of Iron 18 grains.
Boil it and let it cool ; use twice a week, and let it dry on the head.
TINCTURE TO COLOR THE HAIR BROWN.
Sulphur of Potassium 7 drachms.
Water 5 ounces.
Nitrate of Silver 7 drachms.
Rose-water 7 ounces.
This liquid should be applied with the aid of a fine comb, and avoid touching the skin. This is an excellent dye, but the smell is disagreeable.
ANOTHER.
Hydrosulphur of Ammonia 1 ounce.
Solution of Potash 3 drachms.
^ Distilled Water 1 ounce.
Mix well together.
Apply it on the hair with a brush for ten or fifteen minutes ; continue to rub it well in
THE HAIB. 51
the hair, separating with care the roots, so that the whole may be alike in color. Bald- ness is often beyond the power of art, espe- cially when caused by age. The only visible means is the use of wigs or artificial hair, which when worn in large quantities is det- rimental to health. One often sees the most youthful wigs on old men bent with age, their very wrinkles a contradiction. Any knowing eye can readily discover baldness, though covered with a luxuriant wig. The white hair would be far preferable to the latter.
I particularly allude to men, for women have so many resources, by wearing head- dresses, caps, etc., that they can hide their wants in a most harmonious manner.
To resume : the hygiene of the hair consists in keeping it well brushed and cleaned, and prudently employing rational cosmetics. Seek to aid Nature, without constraining or falsifying it.
52 THE FOREHEAD.
THE FOEEHEAD.
" The forehead is the gate of the soul, and the temple of modesty."
(he forehead is a very important part of the face, and for physiognomists it is assuredly the most characteristic.
Lavater said, to he perfect, it should he in exact proportion with the face, equal in length with the nose and the lower part of the face. When thus exact, it produced a Grecian profile.
In size it should be either oval or square, free from irregularities and permanent wrinkles ; it should, nevertheless, be suscep- tible of both. It should recede above, and advance below. The color of the skin should be fairer than any other part of the face. The ancient Homans looked upon a low fore- head as a trait of beauty.
According to Winckelinann, the low fore- head was so appropriate to all ideal heads and youthful figures of ancient art, that its form
THE FOBEHEAD. 53
is sufficient to distingnisli an ancient work from a modern one.
Evidently there are various kinds of beauty for the forehead ; one cannot assuredly dis- simulate the majesty attached to a high one, notwithstanding low ones are more agreeable and expressive, especially in women.
The Circassian ladies, to make their fore- heads low, cut their hair, allowing it to fall over their forehead until it almost touches the eyebrows. Those who had it too high covered it with bands, thus making it low. To give the face an oval form, the hair should border the forehead enough to be round on the temples. If the forehead is hard and bony, that being its nature, it can never change ; yet it contributes singularly to the varied expression of the face. There is also a mobility of the forehead, composed of the skin and muscles, that, under the action of thought, sensations, sudden emotion or grief, become contracted and wrinkled.
Its beauty does not consist alone in its size, its round or square form, but also in its maj- esty, severity, and grace of expression.
64: THE FOREHEAD,
Permanent wrinkles in tlie forehead are commonly tlie result of age. Nevertheless they appear in yonthfnl persons of a reflec- tive and melancholy disposition. Some fore- heads are not white nor intact : they redden Tinder the influence of divers sentiments — modesty, shame, fright, and indignation. This is only a passing redness, but when it too easily and too frequently occurs, it produces congestion, and sometimes a painful sensitive- ness.
I have seen young girls suffer so much from this redness of the forehead, that it be- came in time nothing less than a rush of blood to the head. True, in numerous cases it depends on the general state of the health, and is caused by an excessive degree of sen- sitiveness. To those afflicted, I would beg them to pay special attention to the means of preventing it.
I cannot recommend them too much to avoid prolonged attention at any study or work, especially in a position where the head is bowed. They should stop from time to
THE FOREHEAD, 55
time their occnpation by some sudden exer- cisej as throwing back the shoulders, etc.
Avoid all stimulating food and drinks. Children' s hair often grows down on their foreheads, so that mothers are compelled to shave it ; it is a good way to do.
At the age of puberty, young persons are afflicted with pimples and little eruptions, which are often, strange to state, excellent signs of perfect health. They disappear often without any treatment ; sometimes a little warm water and a few drops of cologne, or the following lotion :
LOTION".
Borate of Soda 9 grains.
RosGrwater 5 draclims.
Orange-flower Water. 5 draclmis.
Por light lotion.
Brown patches sometimes disfigure the foreheads of women especially, and particu- larly during pregnancy. In the last case it is but natural, and they disappear of their own accord when confinement takes place;
56 THE FOREHEAD.
in tlie first case they leave with difficulty, and require careful treatment. The following prescriptions are excellent :
Chlorate of Potash 2 scruples.
Eose-water -J pint.
Mix well.
ANOTHEB.
Ammonia Liquid 2 scruples.
Distilled Water ^ pint.
Essence of Lemon 10 drops.
To be used on retiring.
POMADE.
Brimstone Flour 1 scruple.
Anise Oil 2 scruples.
Cold Cream 1 ounce. -^
Anoint the spots on retiring, and wash with warm tea in the morning.
As to wrinkles, I cite a few of the many formulas recommended -to diminish, if not remove them.
BALM TO DIMINISH WRINKLES.
Benzoin Water 1 drachm.
White Honey. 1 ounce.
Alcohol 1 gill.
THE NOSE. 57
Let it macerate for eight days, then bathe the forehead lightly. A little benzoin water in pure water, with the following lotion, is also a preventive against roughness and wrinkles.
LOTION.
Turpentine 2 scruples.
Simple Water 3 ounjces. j
Bathe the face and let it dry.
POMADE TO CONCEAL WRINKLES.
Essence of Turpentine 2 drachms.
Mastic 1 drachm.
Fresh Butter 2 ounces. -
Mix, and use lightly.
THE NOSE.
^\/-^ANY persons are constantly attacked by a partial redness of the nose, and with some it increases and becomes a reddish violet, when exposed to cold, ex- citement, or in drinking stimulants.
I have often seen young ladies with beau- 3*
58 THE NOSE.
tiful, fair skin, of lymphatic temperaments, afficted with a slight redness at the extrem- ity of the nose. This appeared particularly while eating, notwithstanding the food was plain and simple. I have also seen cases where the skin became thin and exfoliated at different intervals, in the form of a mem- brane or an onion peel. This is considered a real malady, and requires long and difficult treatment.
At other times, from no apparent cause (unless it is that of wiping it too much, or picking it with the hands), it becomes swollen and inflamed.
One of the worst things is to pick the little tan spots, or secretions, commonly called ''squeezing the little worms;" it is con- demned by medical men. The only way to prevent them is to take proper care in the toilet. The nails are nothing less than poison to the nose ; therefore the hands should be kept from it.
Lavater said, ''A beautiful nose is never associated with a deformed face. A person may be homely, and have beautiful eyes ;
THE NOSE. 59
but a fine nose is necessarily a happy anal- ogy of traits." The ancients called it Tiones- tamenium facet. The nose should be regu- lar, and in equal length to that of the fore- head. It should have in the middle of its base a superficial line, appearing to divide it into two parts ; the end should not be hard, fleshy, too pointed, nor too long ; its outlines should be precise ; the nostrils slightly hemmed. The aisles of the nose should be free and open ; in this form they denote, it is said, great delicacy of sentiment, that might easily degenerate in sensuality. The nose has various forms. The Tartars have generally flat ones ; the Africans, snubby and thick ; the Jews, aquiline, and remarkably long ; the English, cartilaginous, and rarely pointed. The negligence of nurses is often the cause of rendering the noses of children flat, turned-up, etc. This is an assertion that one may naturally accept and say nothing in opposition. The nose is an organ that has the privilege of being more exposed than any other on the face. The nose, with many persons, is the seat of
60 THE NOSE.
little black spots, especially in the sides ; and sometimes are so tMck, they give a dis- agreeable expression to the face.
ISTaturally, the first advice to give, is to cease habits that cause this disagreeable an- noyance.
Above all, avoid the habit (so common) of squeezing them with the nails, for it causes redness and swelling of the nostrils, and often leads to serious pain. Avoid all un- necessary pomades ; use only some lotion or an astringent.
The following used morning and night will prove beneficial.
LOTION.
Carbonate of Soda 2 scruples.
Distilled Water ^ pint.
Essence of Roses ,.,... 6 drops.
To be used in. the morning.
Some persons have a skin so delicate and tender that they cannot wipe the nose with other than a silk handkerchief. This I do not approve of ; silk or cotton are both ob- jectionable ; pure linen is the best. I give
THE EYEBROWS. 61
this as a hygienic precaution. Cotton irri- tates and produces pimples.
Many persons are provoked "by the too long growth of hairs in the nostrils. It is a dangerous thing to pull them out ; the best way is, when they pass the edge of the nos- trils, to cut them slightly with a scissors.
THE EYEBROWS.
" There is nothing that so embellishes the body or causes one to love, as the eyes."
fHE eyebrows are two rows of fine hair ^ in the form of an arch, that rise above the eyes at the extremity of the forehead. The part nearest the nose is called the head, and the end the tail. The space between the two entre-cil. The eyebrows, to be handsome, should be well-furnished with hair, moderately thick, curved, and form a line in the shape of an arch. The head should have more hair than the tail,
62 TEE EYEBROWS.
and the numerous short hairs should lie in and out. The two eyebrows should never meet, and though one often sees them per- fectly united, it is at the present day looked upon as a deformity. Ovid considered it an advantage ; "but everybody has his own opinion. Certain persona consider it a sign of a hard disposition.
It is impossible to offer a definite remedy for them, but with daily care they may dis- simulate the disadvantage of being too thick or too thin.
Like the hair, the eyebrows require varied care in the toilet, according to their condi- tion. They may be either too moist or too dry ; and often, like the hair, they fill up with little crusty membranes, so dry that they cause the hair to fall, and leave the eyebrows bare and irregular. Pass a comb carefully over them night and morning, commencing at the head part and following to the end, so as to retain the shape so essential to their beauty. A soft tooth-brush dipped in pure water with a little cologne is quite sufficient. When these little dry membranes or pimples
THE EYEBROWS. 63
appear, dip the brush in the following mix- ture and pass it lightly over them :
Chlorate of Potassium 9 grains.
Pure Glycerine 1 ounce.
Water 1 gill.
When too moist, wash them with the fol- lowing :
Borate of Soda 9 grains.
Distilled Water 1 gill.
Essence of Portugal 18 grains.
If they continue to fall, anoint them on retiring with a little almond oil, and in the morning wash them in tepid water.
To increase the growth of the hair on the eyebrows, it is commendable to shave them and anoint with a little sweet-oil. This means may prove useless, especially if it is in the nature of the hair to fall, having once been full. The following wash is excel- lent, and in some cases productive of much good:
Sulphate of Quinine 5 grains.
Alcohol 1 ounce.
To those who have very heavy eyebrows,
64 THE EYEBROWS.
whicli is, on the contrary, more agreeable than otherwise, they should by all means avoid the habit of shaving or cutting them too close : if the hairs grow too long cut the ends lightly with a scissors.
To render them black and brown, there are various means. The simplest one to render them black is to touch them with a little black of mastic ; great care should be taken not to let it stain the fingers or skin. To darken them the following is excellent :
Gall Nuts 1 ounce.
Oil 3 ounces.
Mix with Ammoniac Salt 1 drachm.
Add a little vinegar.
Bathe them, and let it remain on a]l night. Wash in the morning with tepid water.
TO BENDER THEM BROWN.
Lead Filings 1 ounce.
Iron Dust • 1 ounce.
Vinegar 1 pint.
Boil all together till reduced to half the original quantity. Shake it well when cool, and wash the brows.
THE EYES. 65
THE EYES.
teE eyes, albove all parts of tlie body, 'Ij^^ paint our most secret thoughts. The eye belongs to the soul more than any other organ. It is the sense of the mind and the tongue of intelligence.
The most ordinary colors in the eyes are orange and blue ; and often these two colors can be seen in the same eye. The handsom- est eyes are those that appear black or blue, the lids pinkish white, not too large nor too thin, and barely passing the orb of the eye in order to give a delicate shade to the lashes, and have the white of the eye quite clear.
The eyes are most beautiful when the lashes are long and heavy, but the true beauty of the eye is in its expression. They are very fine when the angles are long and acute, especially in a horizontal direction, the lids covering a part of the white and leaving the centre of the eye clear and trans- parent.
66 THE EYES.
Small, sparkling black eyes are very pretty when the lashes are full. The eyes should not be too round nor too prominent ; when they are full, or as above, acute in form, they possess great force and an attractive gentleness.
Guy on, who wrote many works on human anatomy and physiology, said, ''Whoever has received from his Gfod the precious gift of strong, beautiful eyes, should carefully preserve them." But how few do ! It is deplorable to see the negligence and forget- fulness of the hygiene of the sight.
It would be an error to believe that the mysteriously admirable expression makes its beauty. Without speaking of the changes that serious illness causes, it is sufficient to signalize its redness, fatigue, and weak- ness. Then taking care of the eyes is the true means of preserving the charm of their expres- sion.
Long hours of study, reading, and work, above all for persons of lymphatic tempera- ment, make the lids red and swollen, and often brings on tearfulness. The most
TEE EYES. 67
minute care should Ibe taken of young chil- dren— never to place them where their faces would be exposed to the direct influence of the light ; children often, when in their cra- dles, and exposed to a strong light, blink and become cross-eyed.
The celebrated Arthur Chevalier notes a simple cause of squinting : it is the pro- voking habit of letting the hair fall over the forehead into the eyes, thus giving a false direction to the vision.
Who has not seen some little darling, while crying, rub its little hands across the eyes and brush the straying hair that clouds its face and clings to the tear-stained cheeks %
A sudden passage from obscurity to a bright light is very bad. A sleeping-room should never be very dark. Exposing the eyes to a sudden light when awakened from a long sleep, is also injurious. Care should be taken to moderate the light gradually. Careful mothers and faithful nurses will not neglect or omit a duty so important with children.
Often in the morning the eyes are sticky
68 THE ETE8,
and gummed together. E,nlb"bing to open them is the worst thing one can do ; it not only irritates the lids and reddens the eyes, but makes the lashes fall. Bath them for ten minutes in cold water, and much relief will Ibe the result. It is far better than either warm or tepid water. Excessive labor by lamp, gas, or other artificial light, as well as late hours, abuse of pleasures, etc., betrays the eyes and makes them cernes and old. The observance of hygienic rules is indispens- able to preserve their strength and beauty. As I have stated, cold water is the best lotion for the eyes, and should be repeated several times a day ; however, when they are fatigued and red, it is well to use some tonic lotions more fortifying. Wash them with rose-water, mint tea, and a few drops of alcohol, or the following lotions :
Rose-water 1 gill.
Vulnerary Alcohol 1 drachm.
ANOTHER.
Infusion of Roses 3 ounces.
Citron Juice 6 drops.
LASHES. 69
ANOTHER.
Sulphate of Zinc 4 grains.
Hydro de cyanus (blue bottle) 3 ounces.
Use these lotions in the morning.
The Oriental dames, to make tlieir eyes appear large, nsed a fine pencil dipped in an antimonial sulphur, or Egyptian black, and rubbed it on the lids along the angles of the eye : this made it look as they wished, larg'e, full, and almond-shaped.
LASHES.
ONGr lashes are absolutely requisite to ^^S- ^^^i^pl®^® ^^^ beauty of the eye. The ^^^^ loss of them takes away much of grace from the lids, be they ever so fine. This infirmity often accompanies "absence of hair, which I have just mentioned, and called mtiligo. We have seen that the regrowth of the hair is not, thank God, impossible. It is often very difficult, particularly here,
70 LASHES.
"because the application of tonics is not so easy.
A cause not commonly known, and wliich, to the despair of many ladies, makes the lashes fall, is a greasy secretion that lies on the lids and sometimes dries there and breaks the hair — a malady of the lid easier to explain than remove. The principal thing required is to carefully wipe away the secretions with which they are impregnated in the morning, after sleep. In this case cold-water lotions are insufficient, and fear- ing to detach the hair, I would advise more active lotions.
LOTIONS.
Borax 4 grains.
Syrup of Quinces 1 drachm.
Black-cherry Water, distilled 1 ounce.
It is also well to anoint them with a little sweet- oil, because it is cooling and dissipates the secretions.
Means have been sought to make the lashes thick and long. It seems difficult, not to say impossible. The irritating appli-
THE EARS, 71
cations that must be nsed are more disadvan- tageous than otherwise.
It is the same when the hair grows irregu- larly on the lids ; there is nothing to do but to cut it patiently. This is easily done by closing the eye.
THE EARS.
L'oreille est le chemin du coeur.— Madame Deshoulieres.
tiE ears are true ornaments of the head. The ears, to be beautiful, should pos- sess several qualities. They should be short, round, well-turned, with a clear, lucid, transparent color, verging on a reddish pink, particularly on the edges. They should be well attached to the head, and never so far from it as to appear drooping. They should never be covered with hair. If they are too large, there is no remedy but to re- lieve, as far as possible, this disagreeable imperfection by an attentive toilet. With
72 THE EABS.
children mucli may be done to prevent this deformity. Always avoid tying the strings of a child' s hat behind its ears. An ear, to be pretty, should be perfectly close to the skin. In certain countries it is a mark of distinction to have long, pendent ears. So fixed is this intention, that at birth the ears are pierced, and heavy rings inserted, partic- ularly among the women in the kingdom of Arracan, among whom long ears are a sign of beauty. They even passed rolls of parch- ment through to enlarge them, so as to have them hang down to the shoulders.
In colleges, schools, and even at home, the habit of punishing children by wringing their ears, is a bad one, if not a very cruel one. Parents should stop it. Without speaking of the grave results that may arise from it, it hardens the skin and makes the ear droop.
To preserve and keep the ears smooth, lucid, etc., they should be washed every morning in pure water, with a few drops of cologne, or, better still, lemon-juice. If there are little hairs growing on the ears, never pull them out ; it is far better to cut them.
THE MOUTH AND TEETH. 73
Marian strongly condemns tlie use of the ear- syringe and throwing cold water too suddenly in the ear. . The Spanish and Italian ladies tinge the edges of their ears with pale pink.
THE MOUTH AND TEETH.
Vos levres sont rouges comme une petite bande d'ecarlate. . . . Vos dents blanches et nettes sont semblables aux trou- peaux de brebis que I'on vient de tondre. — Salomon, Can- tique des Cant.
'he mouth should be small, and in laughing or speaking should be open wide enough to show four of the upper teeth, but not more than ^lyq^ straight, without saliva. Much of its beauty depends upon the form of the lips, gums, and teeth.
The lips^ to be pretty, should be neither thick nor thin, and of an incarnate vermil- ion ; and, in closing, the mouth should meet and form an obtuse angle in the middle and the extremity, the under lip slightly raised ;
74 THE MOUTH AND TEETH.
and between the nose and lips there should be a shadowy little furrow. In Guinea, the girls, to appear beautiful, use artificial means to increase the size of their lips. This is, nevertheless, very unpleasing.
Gaping lips, which give the visage such a singular air, arise from the bad habit of keep- ing the mouth open and putting the fingers in it incessantly. It should be sternly op- posed.
The skin of the lips is extremely thin, es- pecially among young persons, whose skin is easily chapped by the wind, cold, etc.
This results from an internal irritation of the digestive organs, and sometimes from bad habits.
In general, children are allowed not only to put their fingers in their mouth, but all sorts of things. A baleful habit that may be attributed to grown persons, is that of biting their lips. The result in the long run is that they become swollen, scarred, and crusty. I will add, it is one of the most difiicult habits to correct.
To prevent redness and swelling of the
THE MOUTH AND TEETH. 75
lips, apply night and morning a little warm poultice (clianging it every half hour) made of potatoes or powdered rice, or the follow- ing poultice :
Bread 1 ounce.
MUk IgiU.
Boil and press.
The following pomade is excellent :
Pulverized Starch 1 drachm.
Spermaceti 1 scruple.
V/hite Wax 1 drachm.
Oil of Olives 2 drachms.
The lips are often afflicted "by little bluish membranes that are accompanied by little eruptions, rendering them swollen and sore. In this case use the following alkaline pomade :
Carbonate of Soda 9 grains.
White Wax , ^ ounce.
Cucumber Pomade ^ ounce.
ANOTHER.
Carbonate of Soda 2 scruples.
Fresh Lard -J ounce.
Essence of Portugal 1 scruple.
For ointment.
76 THE MOUTH AND TEETH,
LOTION.
Tannin * 1 scruple.
Water 1 giU.
Essence of Berg-amot. ... 6 drops.
Mix carefully.
Dip a fine linen rag in the lotion, and apply it for several minutes to the lips. When the lips have a dry tendency, the following pomade is excellent to preserve them in a good state :
ROSE POMADE FOR THE LIPS.
Oil of Roses ^ pint.
Spermaceti li ounce.
White Wax li ounce.
■ Alkanet Root li ounce.
Essence of Rose 2 drachms.
Put the wax, spermaceti, the oil a la rose, and orchanet root in a bowl or earthen pot. When dissolved, pound the root fine, and let them remain four or five hours so as to extract the color, strain through a tine muslin rag, and add the essence of rose.
CERATE A LA ROSE FOR THE LIPS.
Sweet Almond Oil 2 ounces.
White Wax 1 ounce.
THE MOUTH AND TEETH. 77
Let it steep in an earthen pot, and add Alkanet Bark or Carmine, Tie them all up in a little bag", and let it steep until of a bright red color. Let it cool a little, and add six drops Essence of Kose.
When the lips are chapped, especially the under one, anoint them morning and night, before exposing them to cold air, with po- made ad hoc.
Oxide of Zinc 18 graias.
Cold Cream ^ ounce.
Mix well.
ANOTHER.
Cold Cream ^ ounce.
Glycerine is also excellent.
Sometimes the lips are afflicted with a pain- ful inflammation covered with a thick crust ; in this case, one must apply tonics more active.
White Precipitate 6 grains.
Cold Cream 1 ounce.
Anoint them.
ANOTHER.
Turbith-mineral 1 scruple.
Sulphur Sublimate 2 scruples.
Fresh Lard 1 ounce.
Essence of Lemon 6 drops.
78 THE MOUTH AND TEETH,
The gums contribute as much to the beauty of the mouth as the lips ; thej should be of a fresh vermilion color. Unfortunately, from various causes — the principal one, want of care — they alter, become pale, livid, unequal, rough, and inflamed. Independent of this case, the alteration of the gums often results from a bad state of the mouth, stomach, and other organs, that have a very important in- fluence, although often confounded with the hygiene of the teeth. As much may be said of powders.
It is true the use of sweetmeats, without washing the mouth after eating, is very det- rimental, not to the gums alone, but also to the teeth. On account of their chemical de- composition, they roughen the gums and lay bare the teeth.
Tooth-powders injure, by interposing be- tween the gums and teeth. When the gums are pale, it is useful as well as excellent to rub them briskly, and even bleed them a little with a toothpick. This should not be habitually done.
Friction causes the blood to circulate and
TEE MOUTH AND TEETH. 79
gives tliem a natural color. This advice for the gums has little to do with the teeth. Rottenstein considered healthy, regular teeth an essential ornament of the face. Rousseau said, '^A woman with fine teeth could not l)e ugly." The premature loss of the first teeth has a grievous influence on the beauty and preservation of the second.
The simplest means to preserve the teeth, 18 to brush tliem daily in a little soap and water, and magnesia. Children should be taught this habit at an early age ; it will then come as natural to them as washing their face or hands. The teeth should be brushed after each meal if possible ; if not, rinse the mouth with a little tepid water. Toothpicks should be elastic ; goose-quills are preferable to the metallic toothpicks. According to Rotten- stein, to pass a thread between the teeth after each repast, is excellent. Tooth-brushes should be hard, but not so as to cause pain.
Among the number of dental preparations^ washes are preferable to powders, although a great many of the latter are excellent ; charcoal for instance, though hurtful to the
80 TEE MOUTH AND TEETH.
gums, is excellent for the teetli. In any case, powders sliould not be constantly used. But above all things to be avoided are acids. They make the teeth white at the expense of the enamel. Lemons are also in- jurious, although ladies use them a great deal, by rubbing the peel on their teeth and gums to make the one white and the other red, which often results in caries, that cruel enemy of the mouth.
It is an excellent habit to clean the teeth on retiring, with a little pure water and soap. Avoid breaking nuts or other hard substances with them. I would caution women, in particular, to avoid breaking their threads with them.
Hot or cold water should never be used ; a little tepid is the best. The following pre- scriptions, according to tastes and habits, may be used with success :
POWDER.
Precipitate Chalk 1 pound.
Powdered Starch | pound.
Iris Powder ^ pound.
Sulphate of Quinine 1 scruple.
Pass it through a sieve.
THE MOUTH AND TEETH. 81
POWDER.
Precipitate Chalk 4 ounces.
Borax Powder 2 ounces.
Myrrh 1 ounce.
Iris 1 ounce.
Mix.
POWDER.
Charcoal Peruvian
Iris Powder 1 scruple.
Mix.
oal \
-r, ^ f Of each, 2 drachms,
^lan Bark ) '
In using these powders, always rinse the mouth with lukewarm water.
YIOLET WATER FOR THE TEETH.
Tincture of Iris 1
Spirits of Roses }- Of each, equal parts.
Alcohol . . . . , J
ANOTHER.
Brandy -| gdll.
Alcohol, Vulnerary ^ gill.
Oil of Mint ■. 18 grams.
Mix well.
ANOTHER.
Brandy 1 scruple.
Soap Water , 2 scruples.
Tincture of Pyrethrum 9 grains.
Mix with water, and use a tooth-brush. 2*
82 THE MOUTH AND TEETH.
ANOTHER.
Eau de Cologne , . 1 pint.
Myrrh 1 gill.
Let it steep fifteen days, then strain.
OPIATE FOR THE TEETH.
Honey ^ ...... . 4 ounces.
Chalk 4 ounces.
Iris . . . ; 4 ounces.
Carmine 1 scruple.
Essence of Cloves 9 grains.
Essence of Nutmeg 9 grains.
Essence of Roses 9 grains.
Syrup quantity sufficient.
The simplest prescription is pnre water, "but wlien the breath is bad, it is indispens- able to use some tonic or wash. To remove any disagreeable odor arising from the breath, cansed by eating onions, cabbage, etc, it is sufficient to take a little black coffee, fresh nuts, or orange-flower tea.
For those who smoke, there are many agreeable remedies. The following lozenges are good and easily made :
THE MOUTH AND TEETH. §3
TURKISH LOZENGES.
White Sugar 3 pounds.
Citric Acid 2 dracliins.
Essence of Roses 5 drops.
Musk in grains^ » 4 grains.
Essence of Vetiver ^ 14 grains.
Mix as a paste, putting a little solution of Adragant
Gum in the water and color it. Let it become
hard, then cut at will.
Let US add, a gracious smile gives addi- tional cliarm to the beauty of the mouth, so that the manner of smiling has an extreme importance. Too much cannot be said against a loud, coarse laugh. A soft, gentle smile is becoming to women, especially when they open their mouth a little, and produce two little dimples ; while the under lip should cover the extremity of the upper teeth, to render the laugh lovely. Ovid said, ''That since his time, the beautiful had learned to laugh."
" Qais credat discunt etiam ridere pueUa.^*
84 TEE CHEEKS,
THE CHEEKS.
'ROPERLY speaking, the cheeks un- ite the two parts of the visage that lose themselves in lines more or less marked, and aided by the play of the muscles, they principally form the physiognomy. From them arise the various expressions that paint the sensations which express themselves by movement, form, and color. They are thin or fleshy, hollowed or gently rounded, rosy or pale, smooth or intersected by light traces and little wrinkles ; naturally graceful, they are agitated by a gentle trembling, which raises them towards the eyes. The cheeks should be smooth, slightly rounded, full and of equal size. Nothing contributes more to render the cheeks flat, than the lack of a few large teeth ; therefore one cannot be too care- ful of them, especially young persons.
The cheeks are from their nature the seat of the impurities that we have seen spoil the complexion. It is upon them, principally, that are seen those little white scars and red
THE CHEEKS. 85
spots, SO common among young children after "being kissed, but wMch happily soon disappear.
Therefore, as Andry remarks, it is a deplor- able habit to let every one kiss young chil- dren ; their tender, delicate cheeks should be respected, and one should be content to kiss the forehead gently, or better still, the little hands.
Many persons, especially those of a lym- phatic temperament whose cheeks appear swollen, are what is called chubby- cheeked. Without that, it implies an infirmity.
In this inflated condition I have often seen young girls, haying not only their cheeks, but the upper lip, and even the eyes, appear cov- ered. This condition, almost a malady, fre- quently disappears of itself at the age of puberty, but too often remains independent of medical means and hygienic precautions, all of which are indispensable to be used. These means consist in taking care to avoid isolation, the light of a strong fire, and the ac- tion of a cold wind. Gymnastic exercises, and
Se TEE CEIN.
all that tends to increase the activity of the circulation, are commendable. Avoid all sedentary occupations, and eat plain food. As to tonics, they produce little effect.
The skin in some cases is fresh, white, and delicate, and cannot support pomades, unless very mild. In this case dip a little linen rag in cologne water and bathe the face. When perfectly dry, use a little powdered starch. This is an excellent precaution for young persons when exposed to a cold or humid wind, but they should avoid riding in open carriages.
THE CHIN".
'HE under lip, says Herder, begins the chin, and the jawbone descending on each side terminates it. It may be looked upon as the real key of the edifice. According to the Gfreeks, it should not be pointed nor hollow, but united and insensi- ble. The chin is often covered with pimpleS;
TEE cnm. 87
which in men is caused Iby shaving and the growth of the beard. To avoid this, one should shave daily with a good razor and warm water ; then wash the chin several times with cold water and a few drops of cologne, always wiping slowly with a fine towel. Those who wish to wear the beard long should never forget to brush and comb it several times a day, sometimes bathing it in a little perfumed liquor.
CHAPTER II.
BEAUTY OF THE FACE— Resumed.
E have seen in detail the traits which
^^^& contribute to the beauty and physiog- nomy of the face. The air of the vis- age is an essential part of respectability.
A modest, gracious, enchanting air is or- dinarily expressive of an honest, gentle, peaceful soul. It impresses on the brow a noble, majestic disposition ; in the eye, candor and cordiality. From that air comes gentleness, affability, and in a word, the most beautiful expression resulting from a pure mind and a good heart. But is not the phys- iognomy deceitful? Yes. It can be re- made. JN'evertheless, paint is never the skin itself, be it ever so adroitly applied.
BEAUTY OF THE FACE. 89
The skin on the face is remarkable for its mobility, resulting from numerous physical and moral causes ; this change is due to the variety of individual expression, principally dependent on the disposition, habits, and professions. It is well known, that this flex- ibility of face has made the talent and rep- utation of the greatest comedians, who suc- ceeded in attaining it by perseverance and study. Gfrimaces are but exaggerated ex- pressions and movements of the muscles. One cannot begin too early to oppose this bad habit among children. And I may also address a few observations to grown people, who amuse themselves making wry faces be- fore children ; it is a nervous influence that guides the muscular movements of the face. It is hardly credible the influence that imita- tion exercises on the nervous movements of the face. The pleasantness of the face con- sists less in the particular form of its traits, than in the harmony and mobility which con- stitute their expression. The expression of the face depends above all on the sentiments of the soul. Transitory, they leave but a
90 BEAUTY OF THE FACE.
transient impression. Otliers contracted daily in a good or bad education impress themselves profoundly : thus anger, pride, and scorn produce the most disagreeable airs.
The skin on the face is also remarkable for its fine delicate structure and sensibility. From these arise the changes of color under the influence of divers impressions.
Sometimes pimples, spots, and other alter- ations in its color, betray a modification of the state of health or disease. Outside of any sickly state, the colors of the skin on the face are so special, that there is nothing more difiicult for a painter than to make an image of them, and he cannot do it without mixing separately all the colors in his palette.
c\ /.^r^
THE FOBM. 91
THE FOEM.
rrF, as we have said, real beauty — the beauty which charms and seduces —
SS resides principally in the visage, it is, however, only one part of tlie subject we propose to treat. One cannot conceal in view of its connection with the embel- lishment of the bodv, the interest which the study of the figure properly called members, etc., presents.
A graceful form gives a remarkable ease to the carriage, a light attitude and gentleness that add singularly to the power of beauty. ^' Learn to walk as becomes a woman," said Ovid. There is in the step a grace that is not to be disdained.
" Est et in incessupars non temnenda decoris."
There is in the step a certain distinction which will be found well explained in the History of England and Scotland. The author in speaking of Anne Boleyn, the wife of Henry VIII., said, ^' She had in her
02 THE NECK.
appearance and manner a charming and in- imitable air."
Winckelmann, in his History of Antiquity, says : The G-reeks sought to observe great modesty in their carriage and actions. They Ibelieved that a precipitate step shocked the ideas of propriety, and announced a sort of rusticity in the manners.
THE NECK.
HE backbone is that flexible column which extends from the neck to the Inferior extremity of the reins. W hen it is straight, supple, and well placed, it makes, Ayith the aid of the neck, shoulders, breast, and hips, a beautiful waist. • The neck is the commencement of the breast ; among women it is rounded. Ber- nardin de St. Pierre called it a cylindrical column, in his studies on nature.
To be well made, it should be slightly
THE SHOULDJSRS.—THE CHEST, 93
rounded, long, moderately slender, and well detaclied from the shoulder. A well- formed neck is one of the most agreeable features of the human species.
THE SHOULDEES.
'he shoulders have also their kind of beauty. With women they are less removed from the trunk ; they should
be level, well-posed, large, and insensibly
descending.
THE CHEST.
[PHE chest should be large, well raised, ^j^l and gracefully rounded. To be well- placed, the breasts should have an interval between, equal to that which exists between the nipples and the middle of the hollow of the collar-bones. They should be
94 THE CHEST.
slightly rounded, little, hard, and not too much attached to the "body. Women have the collar-bones less curved, and conse- quently longer, Avhich gives them ordinarily large and beautiful width. Women have the abdomen fuller, the waist finer, and the hips more advanced than men. To ren- der the waist small, large hips are a natural necessity. The waist is considered the pivot of the divers movements of the body. It constitutes that grace which La Fontaine has proclaimed, "Plus telle que la beauU^ One sees, indeed, every day, women with pretty faces, and yet, from their clumsy, thick waist, they fail to attract ; while others, less beautiful, with irregular traits, please and attract by their slender waist and graceful carriage. The waist, properly speaking, marks the regions of the back and the loins. In well-formed women, the waist is generally long, and remarkable for its flexibility and elegance.
Andry notes numerous alterations to which the waist is subject, as well as the cares and precautions it requires from in-
THE CHEST. 95
fancy. From his singular work I borrow a few useful hints which have merited suc- cess, although too neglected at the present day. " It is no easy task," says be, "in the education of children, to care as much for the mind as for the body. There are very few perfect waists. The shoulders are either round, the neck is too short, or one shoulder is higher and larger than the other, or in- clines too much to the side ; all these con- ditions tend to disfigure the waist. When the shoulders of a young girl have a tendenc}^ to roundness, she should frequently exercise her arms by throwing them behind, posing them over the hips so as to advance the chest. She should sleep on her back. I have often seen young ladies who had this vicious ten- dency, wear a kind of corset with braces two or three hours every day, so as to bring the shoulders back in place, and enlarge the chest. Orthopedic corsets are excellent. To prevent children from bending their neck, there are a host of means, many of which are very simple, such as tying elastic bands, etc. Another point to which I would call at-
96 THE CHEST.
tention is : IN'ever place a child in a cradle where its head is turned towards the light. Another bad habit is taking children up by their hands, or dancing them up in the air, to ^'see their grandfather." This playful cus- tom is injurious, and one runs the risk of deforming the carriage of the head.
To prevent the neck from sinking between the shoulders, one should take children up by the waist. Later, when children are studying, their desk or table should be two fingers lower than their elbows, but not too low. If too low, it forces them to advance their shoulders ; if too high, it compels them to raise them too much. It is the same for a dining-table. Young children should not be tied in their chairs ; if tied, place a little footstool under their feet. The manner of wrapping up a child contributes much to this defect. Lay the body straight, the arms even with the legs. Never carry a child constantly on the same arm. If one shoulder inclines to the side, numerous precautions are given, which apparently possess no great value, but are
THE WAIST. 97
not, however, without importance. Constant exercise will contribute to correct this de- formity.
THE WAIST.
STOUT waist requires hygienic care, activity, and great exercise. The same of one that is too slight. Do not confound this with a waist too small — that is to say, reduced to such proportions as are incompatible with health. And here I cannot too strongly condemn the frequent habit that young persons have, of tight- lacing, to make their waists small. They commit a great error ; for the beauty of the waist does not consist in its size, but in the harmonious bearing of all the parts that concur to form it. It is also seriously detrimental to health. I have seen many unfortunate results, serious, and even mor- tal accidents, from this practice. Sometimes the waist is all one piece ; nothing easy or
98 THE WAIST.
free. IS'otwitlistanding its fine mould, it has a constrained air, which seems as if the person had a sword down the back. All kinds of exercise are recommended that ob- lige children to leap, run, etc., so as to de- velop and render flexible the limbs.
To prevent the waist from turning, Andry recommended various means, which are em- ployed up to the present day. A very im- portant matter is too little regarded : it is the choice of little chairs used for young chil- dren.
The seat should be narrow and close, be- cause, if soft-bottomed, it sinks in the centre so that the child when seated has a tendency to bend its neck. This deformity is attended by general causes, debility, etc. Andry goes so far as to recommend chairs with wooden bottoms and side pieces, so as to make them high or low at will.
It is important that young girls, during their work or study, should constantly pre- serve a straight posture, nevertheless without a disagreeable stiffness. Thus, in reading or sewing, they should hold their work or book
THE WAIST. 99
towards the eyes, rather than their eyes to- wards them. Another recommendation : they should not forget, when occupied at the piano, or painting, to sit up straight. For a long time we have noted the disadvantages of tight shoes, that wound the feet, and finish by altering the carriage, and above all the position of the waist. High heels make 3^oung people stoop.
The want of solidity, equilibrium, assur- ance, and rectitude in the step, are causes that easily change the waist.
Corsets demand the greatest care in their make. God be thanked, at the present day, those steels and whalebones, so injurious to the bodies of young persons, are renounced. Moderately easy to support, they should never press closely the front of the chest, particularly the breasts.
With those who are growing, great care should be taken to change the size as the form develops. A very tight corset worn for eight days may spoil a waist.
An easy corset should be two fingers wide across the upper part of the chest, to leave
100 THE AltMS.—THE HANDS,
loose space for the breasts. Corsets are in- dispensable to yonng persons of a delicate constitution.
THE AEMS.
EAUTIFUL arms are characteristic
2^^ of women. To be beautiful, they
should be round, plump, small at
the wrist, and gracefully taper towards the
elbows.
<«.
THE HANDS.
EAUTIFUL hands are a charm, but they are rare.
Among the lower classes of women, beautiful eyes, mouth, and forehead are common, but rarely beautiful hands. This is easily understood, if one reflects on the care they require, and the hard work these
THE HANDS. 101
women are obliged to perform. Organs of tact, endowed as they are with an exquisite sensibility in contact with so many exterior objects, they evidently require the most minute care.
A well- shaped hand should be delicate, a little long, and smooth, so that the veins in the back should not appear too large. Little dimples at the extremity of each finger should appear when the hand is open. The fingers should be long and tapering. This form, when it gradually diminishes, is very agree- able, and makes them appear like little col- umns of lovely proportions. To possess an agreeable form, the hands should be a little rounded, the thumb reach half-way up the first finger when the hand is open or closed, and the first finger should reach the nail of the second ; while the middle finger should be a nail's length longer than either ; the third should not be quite a half a nail' s dif- ference with the centre ; and the little finger should reach the second joint of the third.
Tlie hollow of the hand, when open, should be dimpled and full ; the skin should
102 TEE ITAILS.
"be white, fine, and soft, with numerous im- perceptible lines ; while the fingers should possess a supple, flexible air.
THE NAILS.
HE beauty of the finger-nails consists in their pinky tint and well-rounded edge and smooth surface. The free portion of the nail should be short and round. If allowed to grow too long it points, and ends by bending itself on the pulp of the finger. Excessively long nails are considered a sign of beauty by the Chinese ; by us they are considered a sign of slovenliness.
*' Et nihil emineant sint sordibus ungues."
"Que les ongles ne soient pas trop longs et qu'ils soient exempts de tout ordure."
Their cleanliness is, in fact, one of the most indispensable cares of the toilet. Un- less they are clean and neat, they are no
ROUGHNESS OF THE HANDS. 103
more beautiful hands than a pretty mouth with dirty teeth.
The nails, from their transparency, present a brilliant tissue color, sometimes bluish, on account of the state of the health, disease, etc. The Persians are so fond of rosy nails, they tint and paint them. The Indians often do the same.
The beauty of the hands, when perfect, is a great ornament. Although there are few persons who possess that advantage, they may by special care attain it.
KOUGHNESS OF THE HAKDS.
DEFORMITY, or rather a disad- ^ vantage, commonly seen, is rough- ness of the hands. Instead of being soft and flexible, the skin is rough and un- equal, particularly with those who are given to manual labor, and whose hands come in contact with hard substances. There are,
104 BOUGENESS OF THE HANDS.
of course, various exceptions. I have seen ladies Tvho never did any labor, whose hands were by nature red, rough, and dry. This is sometimes augmented by exposure to cold, constant use of warm or cold water, and irritating soap. When the hands are thus afflicted, care should be taken to pro- tect them from the cold. Wash them in luke- warm water and mild soap. Bran water and almond paste are excellent. Anoint them with a little cold cream, and wear gloves on retiring. Avoid manual labor, if possible, and, above all, do not wet them too much.
ALMOND PASTE.
Bitter Almonds, peeled i pint.
Honey 1 pint.
Yolk of Eggs 2 drachms.
Sweet Almond Oil 1 pint.
Essence of Bergamot 2 drachms.
Essence of Cloves 2 drachms.
Beat the honey and the yolks of the eggs together ; add the oil little by little, then the almonds and essences.
ROUGHNESS OF THE HANDS. 105
POWDER TO -WHITEN HANDS.
Horse-cliestnuts, pounded 10 ounces.
Bitter Almonds 9 ounces.
Iris Powder 1 ounce.
Carbonate of Potash 2 drachms.
Essence of Bergamot 1 drachm.
Mix. Put a little in two or three glasses of water and wash the hands.
COSMETIC GLOVES FOR THE HANDS.
Yolk of Fresh Eggs 2 scruples.
Sweet Almond Oil 2 tablespoonfuls.
Eose-water 1 ounce.
Tincture of Benzoin 36 grains.
Beat the yolks up with the oil, and add successively the rose-water and the tincture. Put this inside the gloves, and sleep in them.
CHAPS AND CEACKS OK THE HANDS.
HE skin on the hands cracks and chaps, covering the hands with lines which are exceedingly painful. To those thus afflicted, I recommend them
106 CEAP8 AND CBACKS ON THE HANDS.
not to wash their hands too often, and above all, when they do, to take the greatest care in wiping them ; half the time the neglect in drying them causes the chap.
I have often noticed that musicians accus- tomed to frequent exercise at the piano, and even young beginners at that instrument, suf- fer a keen pain in their fingers.
A means that has been used with good effect is the following
MIXTURE.
Tincture of Aloes 1 to 3 scruples.
Glycerine 1 ounce.
On retiring, anoint the fingers and wear gloves. It is simple and easily mixed.
ANOTHER FOR CHAPPED HANDS.
Spermaceti 18 grains.
Olive Oil 2 drachms.
White wax 4 drachms.
Mix carefully, and according toart.
The back of the hand has numerous veins that should barely appear, but with many persons they swell, and become voluminous ;
GHAP8 AND GBAGKS ON THE HANDS. 107
and be the hand ever so fine, they look rough when the veins are large. It is almost impossible to suggest a remedy that can pre- vent their swelling. However, a few hints as precautions may be given.
First, never wash them in hot water. Avoid tight sleeves — gloves can be worn a little tight.
Many young persons, particularly those of a lymphatic temperament, suffer from chil- blains in the fingers and hands, that often result in destroying the color of the skin, and leave scars and reddish-blue marks.
The following pomades are highly praised ;
POMADE.
Opium 2 draclims.
Powdered Sulphur 1 drachm.
Carbonate of Ammonia 2 drachms.
Acetate of Lead 4 drachms.
Fresh Lard 4 ounces.
ANOTHER.
Essence of Turpentine 1 drachm.
Olive on 2 drachms.
Sulphuric Acid 18 grains.
108 CHAPS AND CRACKS ON THE HANDS,
The hands are also subject to little excres- cences, that assume various forms, and are known under the name of warts. Their, presence has something repugnant ; it is probably because general opinion deems them contagious.
A number of means to destroy them has been proposed. The best method is to tie a silk thread tight around the wart — that is, if its base is not too closely grownr on the hand. They can also be cut off or cauterized on the surface. Medical works on the subject deny that the blood of a wart dropping on the hand will produce others.
Mtrate of silver (or pierre infernal) is good. Caustics are dangerous when badly applied.
A small quill dipped in a little muriatic acid is a slow but not disagreeable applica- tion.
Another disagreeable feature is sweaty hands. I have seen young people so troubled with these, that they were constantly wiping them with their handkerchief, especially in the palm ; perspiration so powerful in its
CHAPS AND CRACKS ON THE HANDS. 109
nature, tliat it would stain gloves, silk, or anything of color it touched. Evidently linked to some particular individual cause, it increases under the influence of heat, rapid movements, or moral emotions.
It is an infirmity difficult to remove. It is, however, prudent to abstain from the use of astringents ; there is only one local means, and that is the use of powdered starch.
Means have been used to turn the sweat to the feet by the use of flannel, but as we shall soon see, the perspiration of the feet is far more disagreeable than that of the hands.
General means are the best to oppose this weakness. Much depends on the constitution and the food.
Regular exercise, riding horseback, gym- nastics, etc., tend to diminish it.
Tonics are excellent.
Thermal baths are the best, because they have direct action on the skin. The waters of Cauterets de Bagneres, Luchon, Bareges, Uriage, Schinsnach, etc. Sea-bathing by its reaction produces the same effect. Dr. John-
110 CHAPS AND CRACKS ON THE HANDS.
son, one of the first American physicians of Paris, has treated successfully many difficult cases of skin diseases, and recommends the waters of Spa, also Pierrefoulis ; the latter is most salutary.
The first condition of the nails is cleanli- ness. Between the nails and the skin are fatty secretions, resulting from the impurities with which we come in contact. This fatty substance is always of a black nature. This disagreeable effect is so marked, that even with the minute care that some persons give, they cannot keep them clean ; and in endeav- oring to remove it, they only press it deeper into the extremity of the nail. This is often a double cause why some persons always have dirty nails.
To clean the nails, it is sufficient to use a brush and soap. The brush should be full, large, and soft. Some persons keep them ex- ceedingly neat, it is true, by rubbing the extremity of the fingers with verjuice or lemon. If the liquid flows on the surface of the nail (which it is impossible to prevent), in point of beauty, the process is not with-
CHAPS AND CRACKS ON THE HANDS. HI
out disadvantage, as I will plainly show. The nail, to be beautiful, should be well bordered with the skin on all sides ; the tender film should be intact ; therefore great pains should be taken not to rub it too hard. Nothing injures it so much as the contact of the acids that I have already mentioned. Hot water is also injurious.
One can regulate the borders of tlie nails by passing daily a little steel-pointed file around them. It sometimes happens, how- ever, that the membrane at its base extends on the nail so far as to cover the '' half moon," or little white crescent, which is one of the marks of beauty of a perfect nail. It should be raised with great precaution with the point of the nail file.
Long nails are a great defect, because at the extremity they break, produce pain, and sometimes cause severe inflammation. The same may be said of a nail cut too short, causing nervous irritation and analogous effects. There are many persons who do not give the nails a chance to grow, but cut them, and bite them with their teeth — a fright-
112 CHAPS AND CRACKS ON THE HANDS.
ful habit. The result is, the nail loses its strength, and ends by breaking. Others end by being surmounted by the flesh at the ex- tremities of the fingers, rendering the nail in the form of a pad ; it is very ugly, and the habit, once formed, it is difficult to correct this deformity. The pad itself is an obstacle to the growth of the nail, and becomes painful. If one should decide to let it grow anew, it should be bound round with little bands of cloth dipped in diachylon gum. But in spite of all this, the nail will continue to grow large and unequal.
However, one should endeavor to render the surface of the nails smooth, by mechani- cally but lightly using a fine ivory nail press.
The nails may be polished by rubbing with a sponge dipped in an equal mixture of cin- nabar and pulverized emery, and afterwards passing a little oil of bitter almonds over them. ,, The nail sometimes loses its transparency in several places, becoming the seat of little white spots disagreeable to the view. The French call these ''little lies." Fortunately, how- ever, the nail in growing (for there is no
CHAPS AND CRACKS OJ^ THE HANDS. 113
other means) makes tliem disappear. As to the accidental or superficial stains that fruit or nutshells have upon the fingers or nails, they may be removed by a little lemon-juice, or some steeped laurel leaves. Sometimes pure water without soap will remove them.
Many persons are obliged to cut their nails short on account of the easy manner in which they break. The cause of this is the general dryness of the skin, and can only be reme- died by local means. For instance, anoint them in the evening with pure mutton, lotion, or cold cream, and the following pomade :
Tar 18 grains.
Hog's Lard 1 ounce.
Mix.
Eub the hands and nails with it, and glove them over night; wash thoroughly in the morning with soap and warm water, or a little rosemary tea.
Sometimes, near the root of the nail, little pieces of flesh become detached and are very painful. Many persons are constantly sub- ject to them, especially in cold weather. In
114 THE THIGHS AND LEGS.
order to prevent them, one should avoid rubbing the hands against irritating or corro- sive substances. They should never be pulled off, for that only produces pain and inflamma- tion, and at times has caused onychia. Cut them with a sharp scissors or knife, and put on a little court plaster.
THE THIGHS AND LEGS.
HE thighs are principally remarkable among women for their fulness, the beauty of their outlines, and their polish. They should be firm, massive, and slightly touch each other above the knees.
Moreau de la Saithe, the celebrated author, said that the reliefs which support them be- hind had a type of beauty that would be difficult to describe. Dryness and exagger- ation are the ordinary defects of these parts. Legs are handsome when long, round, tapering, white, and free from hair. An ele-
THE FEET. 115
gantly formed calf should curve witli grace from tlie ankle to the knee ; also as it ap- proaches the thighs. The knee, joints should show slightly.
THE FEET.
like the hands, have an ex- ^^M pression of beauty entirely their own. ^ ^ The foot should be large or small, ac- cording to the proportion of the body ; but white, round, and well placed. The heel should be neither too flat nor too high. Modern shoes differ much from ancient ones, and arrest the development of the foot by their ridiculous compressions. Ladies should always wear their shoes longer than their feet, so as to maintain ease and grace in their movements. In general ladies torture them- selves to have a small foot : ' tis a mistake ; a little foot is not pretty. Others injure their feet by wearing shoes too large. Feet, like the hands, are susceptible to many deformi-
116 THE FEET.
ties : they have their specialties. To prevent these deformities there are various means. The feet above any part of the body require care, especially in warm weather. Frequent change of stockings, and washing them in pnre lukewarm water and soap, are the simplest means. For those who walk a great deal and perspire, rub them with a little alcohol and water or cologne.
Frederick the Great introduced surgeons into his army, whose duty it was to survey the soldiers' feet. The scarfskin, in persons who walk a great deal, often becomes hard, dry, and very thick. It is well to anoint the soles of the feet with some greasy substance, as this thickness often becomes painful, and sometimes causes a deformation. It also produces what is called callosity and corns. Both are generally the result of compression produced by tight shoes, or the slipping of shoes that are too large.
Camper has fully noted the conditions that shoes should possess. He has shown the necessity of accommodating their form to the feet, their changes and movements. The
TBE FEET. 117
callosity whicli forms on the soles and heels of the feet of persons who walk a great deal, when softened, becomes exceedingly painful, and impedes the step. The difference be- tween corns and callosity is, one rests upon the surface, while the other, in a horny root, penetrates the flesh. As I have just said, it is sufficient in this case to anoint them with a little greasy substance, and rest. Corns have deep roots. Celsus called them "foot nails," on account of the excessive pain they occasion, especially when they grow between the great toes. Corns are an alteration of the epidermis on the feet when shoes too large or too small are worn. They are sometimes produced by folds or plaits in the stocking, which are often too large. Per- sons with a fine, delicate, sensitive skin are more subject than those whose skin is insen- sible and thick.
Corns grow insensibly, and only become painful when of a certain size. They are sometimes accompanied by a redness and swelling of the toe, and always by a sharp pain, which is aggravated by the least contu-
118 THE FEET.
sion. Cut them with, a scissors, a razor, or chip them round with a little "blunt instru- ment ad hoc^ so as to remove the thick dry skin ; or, better still, pull them off with the nails, after having softened them by a plaster or poultice of diachylon gum, soft wax, or a foot-bath. This is often the most palliative, as well as most generally employed, and is more soothing than the others. Corns take more or less time to grow, so that one may recommence treatment when necessarj^ A more active means — perhaps too active, be- cause it may prove dangerous — is the use of caustics, potassium, hydrochloride of ammo- nia, nitric and sulphuric acids, etc. Badly employed, they often penetrate deeper than they should, and before one can moderate their action, cause grave accidents. The best and only curative means is extirpation. Use a blunt needle-handle ad lioc^ and pene- trate the corn, after having cut all around it. A good corn- cutter can penetrate the root of the corn without causing a drop of blood to flow, or exciting the least pain. Emollient baths, though not agreeable before this oper-
THE FEET. 119
ation, are very useful after ; at least, if the feet have not been washed in alkalized water, which is just as good. A multitude of means are recommended for curing corns — plasters of soap, mucilage, ammoniac gum, gal- banum, and all kinds of adhesive plasters, sea-green leaves, etc. In spite of their suc- cess, they merit little confidence, but as they are not dangerous, they may be employed by those who fear to yield to a corn-doctor. Corns may even be cured by wearing comfort- able shoes.
GOLDEN CERATE FOR CORNS.
Yellow Wax 5 ounces.
Sulphate of Zinc. . . 1 ounce, 3 drachms, 18 grains.
Oxide Copper 3 drachms, 2 scruples.
Verdigris 3 drachms, 2 scruples.
Borax 3 drachms, 2 scruples.
Red Chalk 1 ounce, 3 drachms, 18 grains.
After a long, fatiguing walk, the feet, especially the heels, are affected by a little white blister full of serosity, looking like a bulb produced by a burn. It is a passing in- convenience. Prick it carefully, and let the
120 THE FEET.
water out witliout breaking the skin ; apply a little linen cloth with cold cream, and re- frain from long walks. This is simple, and sufficient to cure it.
Bunions. — The feet are often burdened with blisters of another nature and more dif- ficult to cure, called bunions, which come generally on the joint of the great toe, and often become hard as the bone itself. Fre- quent foot-baths, soft plasters, and easy shoes relieve them. A little cushion of cot- ton wool placed between them and the shoes is also a means of relief
Chilblains. — I have already spoken of the hands as being painfully deformed by chil- blains, but they are far more frequent and injurious in the feet, particularly of chil- dren and young girls with delicate skin and lymphatic temperament. They sometimes constitute a real disease. To prevent chil- blains from returning, as they always do in cold damp weather, use daily a lotion of pure water with snow wine or camphorated brandy. Liquid of ammonia and eau de cologne are excellent. Peruvian balm is
TEE FEET. 121
much praised. I have seen employed with great advantage the following pomade :
Precipitate White 5 grains.
Chloroform 5 grains.
Cold Cream ; 1 ounce.
When they are very painful and swollen, ap- ply a poultice of elder-flowers and camomile ; or bind them with a little cerate sprinkled with camphor. Electricity has been used for them with success in many cases. If they show a tendency to spread or ulcerate, these means will prove insufficient. Then choose a healthy air, warm clothing, strengthening food, and exercise in walking. Cod-liver oil, Peruvian bark, etc., are excellent to for- tify the system. Sometimes chilblains have an itching sensation, that is so painful, it spreads to inflammation. For this I can only add, use frequent foot-baths, with cologne in the water ; or spread on a linen cloth a little of the following pomades :
Carbonate of Lead 18 grains.
Cold Cream 1 ounce.
6
122 THE FEET.
Essence of Bergamot 10 drops.
Sulpliur Sublimate 18 grains.
Cerate 1 ounce.
Essence of Lemon 10 drops.
Mix with great care.
The hands and feet are sometimes covered with an excessive perspiration, particularly the latter, accompanied with a disagreeable odor. If it is accidentally produced by a long walk, the simplest care will remove it. But unfortunately it is a constant trouble to some persons, who, in spite of their habits of cleanliness and change of hose, continue to be afflicted. I say afflicted, be- cause the odor from the feet when in that state is insuiferable. To remedy it is almost impossible ; j^i there are means that render it endurable without injury to the health. These means are ablutions, with infusions of sage, rosemary, thyme, etc. Bathe them morning and night, and after each bath wipe them very dry, and rub them with a little powder. Let the powder be perfumed The following are simple and excellent :
TEE FEET. 123
Powdered Starcli 1 pound.
Iris Powder 4 ounces.
Camphor 3 draclims.
Mix all together.
No. 2.
Fine White Chalk 1 pound.
Pulverized Starch ^ pound.
Iris i pound.
Mix well, and rub the feet with a little.
The toe-nails require as mncli care as, if not more than, the finger-nails. Sometimes the gravest results arise from their malformation, which is often caused by negligence in cut- ting them, and by allowing them to grow too long, wearing tight shoes, and finally press- ing them into the flesh, where they become rooted, and cause sharp pain. To prevent all this, the means employed are simple. Cut them in a half-circle, and not too close to the skin. If neglected, they often grow very long, and from the pressure of the shoe recede and bend in the form of a claw, and are sometimes so thick they chip off and break, causing severe pain. When the nail is nat- urally dry and breaks of itself, use a fine
124 THE FIGURE.
file, and smooth, it off if surrounded Iby a dry secretion ; wash it in a little saleratus water, wipe dry, and anoint with a little fresh lard or cold cream.
THE FIGURE.
WILL not occupy mj^self with the
,/A strict rules concerning the size of the waist, but simply those that contribute to its beauty. In all cases, it should princi- pally consist in the size of all those parts whose attitudes contribute to its grace and beauty. The waist of men is generally lon- ger than that of women, and differs accord- ing to climate. The inhabitants of the north are generally taller than those of the south. In effect, certain habits and certain exercises aid the development of the form : arms, swimming, gymnastics, etc. The waist is considered the medium part of the form ; above all, among women is characteristic of
THE FIOUME. 125
the heau ideal. Such, was the opinion of the Greeks and Romans.
Clothing helps to show the form to advan- tage, or to give it grace when lacking. The ancient use of cloaks attached on one shoul- der, and hiding a portion of the form, left the waist exposed, because it was such an advantage to beauty. That stiffness which is fatal to grace, is often caused by exces- sively tight clothing. ' ' The limbs should be at ease in the clothing," said Rousseau. *' Nothing should restrain them, nothing should tighten them or paste them to the body." It is a ridiculous pretension, and a deplorable error, to regard an extremely slender waist as very beautiful. If we con- sider the waist as allied with the carriage, it is one of the principal points of our sub- ject. We will see that a pretty carriage and a fine waist are the result of a just propor- tion and exact bearing of all the divers parts. There are, moreovei^ many degrees and varieties in the beauty of the waist.
A pretty waist means a small one ; a fine waist, a large one.
126 THE FIGURE,
In the history of Augustus, who was one of the handsomest men of his time, his fine figure is mentioned. Nevertheless, the merit of the figure consists less in its elevation or its slightness than in the just proportion that favors freedom and grace of movement. The waist should be in proportion to the bust it supports. Be that as it may, elegance, light- ness, and grace of figure are essential qual- ities of beauty ; in them dwell dignity, force, and, in a word, tournure.
The movements of a gentleman are always elegant, at least when not restrained by timidity, or still worse, by afiectation. In walking, avoid waddling ; it is a disagree- able deformity, into which many persons fall by a bad habit. There is something very disagreeable in a heavy, torpid step ; it orig- inates from want of attention in making a child walk in proportionate steps with a grown person. N"ever walk faster than a child ; it is a .bad habit to take long strides, for it causes that heavy, torpid walk so often seen. Many young persons walk as if em- barrassed by their legs. Ease of support is
THE FIGURE, 127
a very important thing ; its absence suffices to leave a bad impression at first siglit. ' ' A fool," said La Bruyere, ''does not enter, go out, sit, nor stand on his legs, like an intelli- gent man."
Without accepting that maxim as abso- lute, parents are recommended to prevent, if possible, that disagreeable habit.
In effect, ease of attitude, flexibility, and grace add much to the fascinations and power of beauty.
CHAPTER HI.
THE SKIN.
'HE skin is not only a remarkable coat that covers the outlines, more or less harmonious, of the periphery, but is composed of several distinct organs and divers membranes, that give it intimate re- lation with the rest of its keeping, and ren- der it one of the most curious and impor- tant parts of the human organization. The skin is endowed with a peculiarly exquisite . tenderness. The nervous papillse constitute a special sense ; vessels that animate and color it ; marvellous little organs that estab- lish between it and the rest of the network a continual intercourse ; the whole clothed with a fine, thin coating that completely pro-
TBE SKm, 129
tects it. It breathes, throws out all impure matters carried by the tide of circulation. In effect, it is sustained by a coating more or less thick, according to the regions of the tissue which maintains it ; softening all the inequalities of the body, and facilitating its movements. When nothing occurs to alter this miscellaneous condition, the skin seems to have life in itself. Beauty blossoms and unites itself to health ; but how many differ- ent influences may trouble the soft harmony of these functions ! That exquisite tender- ness is not always contained in its limits. This little vascular network, so admirable, may be injured in its tenderness and con- tractibility. The marvellous little organs may be injured in their functions.
Independent of these exterior injuries, the skin presents on its surface a general state of alterations. The complexion loses its bril- liancy, the hair is dull, falls, or becomes grey ; the skin alters, wrinkles, and fades. Beauty disappears.
Diseases of the skin are numerous, and their history is so long and odd, that we will
130 THE SKm.
not state them here. Grave alterations of beauty are united with alterations of health. The skin is exposed to so many exterior in- fluences, without being properly called dis- eases, that are an outrage on beauty, that they should be counteracted if possible. For instance, trembling of the hands results from excitement of the nervous system, and is produced by excess and abuse of alcoholics, moral emotions, passions, fear, anger, etc.
It is sufficient to name them in order, to understand the care and importance one should use, to avoid, if possible, all that tends to excite the nervous system. On this sub- ject I will only add that great attention should be paid to children ; never frighten them. It is an error to believe that at an age when reflection is not developed in a child, that one can punish it, and force it to overcome fear. It is by gentle intervention and coax- ing that one can drive away the subject of fear from a child' s mind. How many young children, whose nervous system is afilicted by fear, have gone through life and felt its painful influence !
THE SKIJSr. 131
Another deplorable habit among children, and not uncommon among grown persons, is that of scratching themselves before every- body, especially their heads.
It is a habit that can only be overcome by a firm will and hygienic precaution. The first rule consists in avoiding all that tends to excite the nervous system, as gener- ally persons of nervous temperaments are most addicted to this disagreeable habit.
The second consists in avoiding certain food. For instance, all game, pork, cheese, and alcoholic drinks. Sometimes it is abso- lutely necessary to carefully survey one's habits, and avoid honey, strawberries, al- monds, and innumerable other fruits. These precautions should be aided by the great- est cleanliness, constant bathing, lotions, and sometimes tonics; and above all, avoid scratching.
Some persons find it impossible to wear flannel next the skin. I even knew a pro- fessor who could only wear female apparel.
Although these afflictions cannot be called
■•o
diseases, they require hygienic care, with con-
132 TEE SEm.
stant bathing. The following mixture is ex- cellent for the l^aths :
Sub-carbonate of soda 1 to 2 draclinis.
Distilled Water of Linden ^ pint.
Essence of Roses . 18 grains.
Or a pomade composed of the following :
CMoroform 10 grains.
Fresh Lard 1 ounce.
Use for frictions.
Skin, to be beautiful, should be soft, smooth, and variable in its polish. It is a common thing to meet persons whose skin has not its ordinary softness, but is dull, thick, and pimpled. This little inconvenience is generally on the cutaneous surface, but more prominent on the arms, legs, and thighs, and at times becomes painful. Persons of pale complexion suffer most from their skin in winter. The best remedies for dryness of the skin are lotions ; such as almond oil, gum- arabic water, and cocoanut oil. Pomades of cold cream and glycerine are excellent. The following is excellent for the lips and face :
THE SKIN, 133
A little fresh Butter ) ^
>• Equal quantities. AlmondOil 3
ANOTHER.
Fresh Lard 1 ounce.
Peruvian Balm 1 drachm.
Extract of Thebaique 9 grains.
Mix well, and spread lightly over the face.
ANOTHER.
Cocoanut Butter 1 pound.
White Wax -J pound.
Spermaceti -J pound.
Mix.
There are several diseases of the skin that are natural or hereditary, and although cure is impossible, much can be done to prevent their progress.
Turkish baths are recommended. Sea- bathing is objectionable.
Eruptions on the face result from various causes — change of life, irregular menstrua- tion, and particularly from organic affections and internal diseases, which must be cured before anything can be done for the skin.
Others are the result of accidental or natu-
134 THE SKIN.
ral cansse. Light pimples, snnlbnrn, tan, and freckles always attack fine, delicate skins.
Many persons are affected by a redness in the face, hands, and oftenest in the legs, the result of sitting too near the fire. The nse of lotions will aid much to destroy this red- ness. Pure water with a little lemon-juice often proves an excellent remedy.
Bathe the face in the following lotions :
Sulphate of Zinc 9 grains.
Distilled Water -I pint.
Essence of Lemon 10 drops.
Spots on the skin are sometimes large, or small, and deep ; they are yellow, brown, or white, and generally arise from an organic affection. Women during pregnancy have them, and in France they are called masques.
Sulphur baths are excellent to dispel dis- colorations of the skin. Generally, tonics are fruitless in these cases.
The use of the following pomade will aid to diminish them :
Subcarbonate of Soda 1 to 2 drachms.
Fresh Lard 1 ounce.
Essence of Portugal 18 grains.
THE SKm. 135
Vinegar and carbonate of soda are Iboth excellent to use in baths.
Discoloration of the skin arises from the absence of the pigment ; then it constitutes a general congenital affection, both curious and rare.
Albinism is a complete absence of the coloration. The skin is a milky white ; the hair the same, though generally stiff; in many cases it is curly ; the eyelashes, etc., the same. Albinism is a congenital affection. Albinos are sometimes looked upon as a race among themselves. This is an error. Albinos are found in all the human races. It is plainly seen they can live in almost any cli- mate. It is an organic state which admits of no cure. It is more common among females. In many instances, the hair does not partake of the discoloration, but falls out. With some Albinos, the hair is stiff and jet black, thus making a strange contrast with the face and eyes.
Yitiligo among negroes may be congeni- tal, when it appears in the form of irregular white spots. Negroes affected in this un-
•
136 THE SKIN.
natural state are called in French, '' negres pies,'^'' or piebald, meaning various colors. This affection of the skin is not really detri- mental to beauty, nor is it serious. Various means are used to heighten the color and suspended functions, all more or less excit- ing in their composition. The best results were from the following pomades :
Aromatic Tinctrire 1 drachm.
Prepared Beef Marrow 1 ounce.
Carefully mix.
ANOTHER.
Tamiin 1 drachm.
Fresh Lard 1 ounce.
Tincture of Cinnamon 18 grains.
Mix, and wash the discolored spots.
A little lukewarm water and salt is a soothing lotion. Friction has a good effect. Sulphur baths are also highly recom- mended.
There is another alteration of the skin in various forms and colors, which is congeni- tal and incurable. These spots are desig- nated under the name of spili (de o-TrtAo?,
TEE 8Km. 137
macule), but commonly called and known as enmes or 'longing marks," attributed to certain impressions received by mothers dur- ing pregnancy. Those spots are not confined to the face aloAe, but may be on any part of the body, though generally on the neck and hands. Their surface is smooth, and their shape irregular ; the color varies. Sometimes they are yellow, and are called ^Haclies de cafe^^^ or coffee- stains ; when red, ''wine spots ; ' ' when black, they are generally covered with short, thick hairs.
Frequently, when examining the nape of the neck and the scalp, I was struck in seeing how common it was to find among women little irregular red spots at the roots of the hair, covering a part of the neck. I have known cases where they have been mistaken for skin diseases. I have also seen, though not so frequently, an analogical red- ness of the eyelids, in an irregular form, sometimes extending down the side of the face. This is considered congenital ; although it is unperceived in early youth, it is more plainly seen in later years.
138 THE SKIN.
Birth-marks are indeed injurious to Ibeanty. It is very difficult, if not impossi- ble, to cure them. At most, we may hope to diminish them by the use of astringent lotions, at the same time using internal means to avoid the tendency to congestion of the face.
For the red spots at the roots of the hair and the nape of the neck, there is nothing to be done. Fortunately, they occupy an in- visible place, as they are covered by the hair ; therefore are of so little importance, that many are unaware of them. The dark spots might be removed by cauterizing, but one risks making an indelible scar which would be unsightlier than the spots them- selves. If they are very small, they may be hidden by a little cold cream and powder.
The skin is affected by another species of spots, which are congenital tumors, and do not alter the skin, but the veins. The veins, when altered, are called ncem "i^asculaires. They are sometimes superficial and exces- sively variable. Their red color will often change by a momentary pressure of the
THE SKIN. 139
hand. They remain only a short time, and require very little care. These are more frequent among persons of light complexion. Constipation is one cause of these little eruptions. Much caution must be used in choice of curatives. Among the means most recommended, are the following :
VIENNA WATER.
Almond Bran 1 ounce and 7 drachms.
Orange-flower Water ^ pint.
Eose-water ^ pint.
Make a mixture, and add
Borax 1 drachm.
Tincture of Benzoin ; . 2 drachms.
Mix.
VIEGIN MILK.
Tincture of Benzoin 1 drachm.
Eose-water 1 pint.
Mix carefully.
With age, beauty fades gradually. The capillary circulation is less active, the cu- taneous sensibility becomes weakened, the cellulary tissues collapse ; the skin is no longer sustained, so it flags, and folds itself into furrows called wrinkles.
We cannot escape the ravages of time. These ravages are often favored by inciden-
140 TEE SKIN.
tal conditions; a sanguine temperament is less disposed than a "bilious one. In general, stout persons "become wrinkled late in life. Is it because obesity seems to exclude the influence of the passions and emotions which, on the contrary, are frequently the appanage of bilious temperaments, and which explains the vulgar diction: '^ Grosses gens bonnes gens^^ f
However, many persons have wrinkles that are not caused by age, and are visible every- where ; but those most injurious to beauty are seen on the face, neck, cheeks, and hands. Aristotle said that precocious wrin- kles proved a man effeminate, soft, and timid. This assertion is far from true. There are certainly wrinkles in adults, and even in youths, generally appearing after serious ill- ness, or when persons who have been fleshy become thin. They are also the result of excessive grief and labor, late hours, and contentions of the mind.
It is as difficult to banish accidental wrin- kles as those that accompany old age ; how- ever, we may see those disappear that result
THE SKm. . 141
from grave maladies or a passing decrease in flesh.
Nevertheless, various means are proposed to dispel accidental wrinkles ; such as frictions with almond oil, fresh lard, fresh butter, and alumine lotions :
Sulphate of Alumine 1 scruple, 16 grains.
Pure Water i pint.
Mis, and bathe the face three times a day.
POMADE.
Essence of Turpentine 2 drachms.
Mastic 1 drachm.
Fresh Butter 2 drachms.
Mix, and anoint the face.
In the most remote ages women used lo- tions with sublimate. The best formula for it is the following :
Sublimate 4 grains.
Hydrochlorate of Ammonia 4 grains.
Milk of Almonds (a little thick) \ pint.
Mix carefully.
If they cannot be dispelled, they may be palliated by various means. For a long time paint has been used. Ovid said, in his work
142 THE 8Km.
called '^ The Art of Love," '' Yous empruntez h la ceruse sa hlanclieur tromjpeuseP
In spite of the criticism of which paint has "been the object, in spite of the accidents which the voice of caution has warned against it, the use of white lead is still em- ployed under different names, as hlanc de perle^ blanc d' argent, etc. It is preferred he- cause it adheres to the skin ; and yet it is not only a grave injury, hut has the disadvan- tage of altering and wrinkling the skin.
It has been replaced to a certain extent by the use of bismuth chalk prepared as pow- der or pomade.
VEGETABLE EOTJGE.
Cetaceum 1 pound.
Carthamine Rouge ^ 3 drachms.
Spermaceti 2 ounces.
Pound all together, add a little pure water. Let it dry.
These cosmetics are without the least dan- ger. It is well to use a little pulverized starch when applying the rouge with a rab- bit's or hare's foot, which can always be purchased at a druggist's. Some persons
THE SXm. 143
prefer to apply the rouge with a little glycer- ine or cold cream.
Nothing so defaces beauty of the skin as scars on the face. These indelible traces of ancient sores or wounds, unfortunately more or less apparent, never disappear.
The long duration of scars is quite histori- cal. It was noted in the remote ages of antiquity. Ulysses, after his long voyages and misfortunes, was not recognized by his friends, nor even by his nurse, until she saw the scar he had on his knee.
Scars are variable according to the causes which produce them. They constitute an infirmity more or less painful, according to their extent in form.
Sometimes scars only alter the surface of the skin ; and again they multiply on the surface, and change to a deformed asjDect the expression of the face, like small-pox.
Scars caused by burns leave marks of (sometimes) little importance, yet superficial in color ; but with time they change, and re- semble the natural color of the skin. Scars received in youth often disappear with age
144 THE SEIW.
and growth. I liaye seen various cases of children who were badly burned, but when developed, the scars were scarcely visible.
Certainly there are scars so bad and enor- mous that all art is powerless.
Pliny tells us that mandrake served to remove scars from the face. And, according to Ovid, poppies were employed for the same purpose. In the present age, these plants have lost that pleasing effect. Scars, like wrinkles, and perhaps more so, must be wisely accepted, or else covered.
So what I have said of paints and powders is quite applicable to them.
CREAM FOR WRESTKLES.
White Wax 1 drachm.
Oetaceum 1 drachm.
Melt in a water bath, and add —
Rose-water 2 drachms.
Tincture of Balm of Tolu.. 1 scruple, 16 grains.
Mix, and anoint the face.
ANOTHER.
Alcohol 4 drachms.
White of Eggs 4 drachms.
Pastes of powdered starch, and of oil of cochineal, I have seen so perfectly made as
TEE SEIN. 145
to imitate the color of the skin. The diffi- culty is to prevent them from melting or be- coming detached under the influence of per- spiration. On one occasion I saw a Polish lady whose nose had been cauterized at Vienna, and which had at its extremity a frightful scar, surrounded with little holes that gave it the appearance of a skimmer.
She was beautiful and graceful, and one can well imagine this disfigurement grieved her. She tried various means to conceal it, and with admirable patience made a paste so artfully combined, that it was exactly the color of the skin, and with the aid of a lit- tle anatomical instrument she tilled the holes and covered them with a last coating ; when finished, no one (unless they were very close) could tell the difference. Unfortunately, it would not last long. The heat, perspiration, and a thousand exterior causes, compelled this frail mask to succumb. She used it particularly when going out, but her visits had to be short, as her mask did not remain intact more than two or three hours. She
did all she could while in Paris to obtain 7
146 PERSPIRATIOJ^.
some means of preserving it for twenty-four hours, but she failed.
For certain scars it is well to try tattooing, "but with the greatest precaution in regard to the substance employed, for one risks incur- ring a disfigurement still more disagreeable.
PEESPIKATIOK
HE skin throughout exhales a vapor which does not escape our senses, and appears in a liquid form. Visible or insensible perspiration, which escapes from the body, is a very disagree- able fluid. The celebrated Mercuriali said : ''Beauty is principally found in a good physical condition calculated to flatter the sense of view ; yet if a disagreeable odor issue from the body, it must be called a vice of beauty.'- The skin sometimes exhales a partictilar odor, arising from certain food and drinks ; from eating onions, rabbits, truffles, and cabbage.
PEBSPIEATIOlSf. 147
Every one has a special odor. Certain races, particularly the negroes, the Esqui- maux, and the Terra del Fuego races, have a most disgusting smell, resulting from their habits and manner of living. Their quality of food is generally greasy, and they eat large quantities of bad fish. As I have already remarked, every individual has his or her particular smell. It varies according to age and sex, particularly among women. It is influenced by special circumstances ; as moral emotions, passion, anger, will in one moment change the odor that characterizes habitual health.
But, unfortunately, with certain individ- uals whose hygienic conditions are perfect, and whose habits of cleanliness are minute, the odor is often most disagreeable, especial- ly disgusting with red-haired persons and blondes.
Although this excretion is useful to those who are fleshy and in good health, it is in itself an inconvenience when too abundant. I do not wish to enter into medical detail on the different kinds of perspiration, such as
148 PERSPIRATIOK.
red, blue, and black ; I leave that subject to medical authors. Periodical perspirations are simply stages of intermittent fevers, that disappear by careful treatment, and by ad- ministering quinine. Sometimes they are confined to certain parts of the body : the armpits, the palms of the hands, the feet, and sometimes the scalp, and often the breasts ; but when the odors are disagreeable, they mostly arise from the armpits.
Perspiration may be habitual and general. It is well known that some persons perspire from the least exercise ; a short walk, or the slightest fatigue, will cause it ; and with some persons it is so habitual and abundant it renders them infirm. I have seen many ex- amples, and one especially remarkable — a bishop, a highly educated man, most amiable in disposition, industrious, and active. The slightest fatigue and ordinary conversation caused him to perspire. This afiection poi- soned his very life.
If he wished to write a moment, he was teeming with perspiration. At the slightest change in the temperature he had a cold in
PERSPIBATIOm 149
his head, and "vyhen cured, the sweat would return as before ; thus he passed his life, taking cold and getting rid of it.
The causes of perspiration are many. It is often an organic and hereditary disposition. Heat, warm drinks, and aromatics are natural causes. Dupont tells of a rare and curious exception, that "Some who had a copious perspiration in summer, were troubled in the same way in winter." " Qui dormidt magis Sudani. ''^
Moral emotions, shame, fear, terror, and grief, are powerful causes. In a medicinal point of view, it is not easy to remedy the excess of this secretion, notwithstanding all means have been employed with circum- spect prudence. It is very easy to say what one must avoid ; abstaining from warm drinks and taking cooling ones during per- spiration, have caused fatal accidents. The same in bathing. Great care should be taken to have the body free from heat, and the skin as dry as possible. One can use to great advantage tepid baths, and render them tonic
150 PEB8PIBATI0N.
by a little ''rock salt," or hydrosulpliate of potash.
Strengtliening food, snch as l)rotlis, roast meats, wine, and coffee, elixir of Peruvian bark, frequent changes of the underclothing, wearing flannel next the skin, not covering the body too much, and avoiding sudden drafts : this is the most important advice one can offer, although we suggest, independent of this, means of assuaging the odor, arising from the excess of perspiration.
To those who suffer profusely at the arm- pits, wipe them night and morning with a fine piece of flannel, and when retiring, wash with rose-water, or lemon and water. To have the underclothing perfumed is also an excellent thing — Mercuriali says, by a ' ' little musk," or ''amber wood;" this we do not approve of, but think it is only adding one disagreeable odor to another ; and thus we differ with this celebrated author. We do not condemn perfumes less diffusible than musk, for they might prove agreeable if em- ployed in a small quantity.
For the feet, bathe them three times a week
PERSPIRATION. 151
one hour, in a decoction of ashes, steeped laurel leaves, and a little turpentine.
As to the diet, it is well to exclude such substances as fish, cheese, etc.
The following lotion is an excellent aro- matic :
1
)■ Of each, 2 scruples.
Essence of Mint
Essence of Lavender
Essence of Rosemary
Essence of Lemon j
Alcohol 1^ ounce.
Infusion of Thyme 1 quart.
Mix.
POWDER.
Cinnamon \
Pulverized Starch > Equal parts.
Cardamom ;
Mix.
Perfumed haths are highly recommended, but are exceedingly expensive. The follow- ing, however, is an excellent prescription :
Aromatic Plant.
Boiling Water.
Eau de Cologne, or,
Alcohol,
Pour the whole in the bath.
CHAPTER IV.
OBESITY.
HE mass of fat in the cellular tissue beneath the skin, and in the inter- stices of the adjoining muscles, when contained in certain limits, is detrimental to beauty. It spoils the form when excessive, and annoys the functions and movements of the body. The annals of science contain a number of cases on this subject. In a work entitled, ''Philosophic Transactions," are found examples of men who weighed '^ve hundred to five hundred and eighty-four pounds. Franck cites numerous cases from different authors, particularly Beclard, who tells us of a boy, four years and a half old, who weighed one hundred pounds ; and
OBESITY. 153
Tartra, of a certain Lambert, aged forty, who died at London, in eighteen hundred and nine (1809), and who weighed 739 pounds. However this may be under the influence of fat, the body becomes soft, clammy, and the muscles invisible, the liberty and force of movement lost. After eating, a need of sleep is felt ; the least movement causes perspira- tion and painful oppression. Obesity is sometimes partial. It is common with women ; with men it is generally observed in the abdomen.
This infirmity is often hereditary. Some- times, if not congenital, it commences soon after birth, and with infants it sometimes reaches wonderful development. United frequently to a lymphatic temperament, it only awaits a concourse of favorable circum- stances to develop itself. The circumstances are : sedentary life, habits of laziness, pro- longed sleep, physical and moral inaction.
Prosper Alpin has remarked, that in Egypt the regimen of the inhabitants, the abuse of certain pleasures, the habitual use of warm baths, and the sultry climate, made the men
154: OBESITY.
extremely corpulent. N'evertlieless, cold climates also produce the same influence.
Larry attributes an extreme influence to moral emotions. On the other side, Franck cites a curious case — the extraordinary obes- ity of a new-born infant on account of a sudden emotion of the mother. The great- est influence on the development of obesity, after a lymphatic temperament, is the food. It is observed among high livers and those that are accustomed to nutritious food. Another thing to be remarked : those em- ployed in certain trades and professions — for instance, the butchers — are invariably fat. Fat originates often from constant use of cer- tain food, as bread, butter, milk, sugar, beer, potatoes and spirits ; assist its development, if not produce it, particularly at a certain period of life.
The use of fruits, dates, sweetened drinks also increase and encourage it. With some persons, the excess of flesh, instead of mak- ing them ugly, renders them really fine. There is a something united to a sanguine temperament, that the increase of flesh,
OBESITY. 155
united to high color, renders attractive. It is, however, a great inconvenience, and in all times has claimed the attention of physi- cians. In any case, it is far from being con- sidered beautiful with us. A host of means are praised to reduce corpulency, which are not commendable. However, it is not im- possible to diminish it, if strict attention is paid to hygienic rules. Seek a warm, dry air, the action of fire, sunshine, sleep on a hard bed, lead an active life, practise in- tellectual labors ; regular exercises, fencing, gymnastics, and dancing, are very efficacious ; plain food, and not too abundant ; no sweet- meats, little bread, and acid drinks in large quantities. To these hygienic means may be added with advantage, friction, alkaline baths, salt-water baths, and above all, vapor baths, aided by shampooing. I obtained excellent relief by administering iodine in- ternally, and also by passing a season at the waters of Kreuznach. Banting's treat- ment has long been highly praised, and has cured many difficult cases of corpulency. The following are his statements : ' ' At the
156 OBESITY.
age of sixty-six I weighed 202 pounds ; in less than twenty days I lost 46. At "breakfast, four or fiye ounces of beef or mutton, broiled fish, cold meat of all sorts except fresh pork, a cup of tea without milk or sugar, a little biscuit, or an ounce of toasted bread. At dinner, fiye or six ounces of fish (not salmon) or meat (not fresh pork), all kinds of vegetables (not potatoes), an ounce of toasted bread, a little fruit, no pas- try, no poultry or game ; two or three wine glasses of good Bordeaux or Madeira (cham- pagne. Port wine, and beer prohibited at tea) ; two or three ounces of fruit, a cup of tea without milk or sugar.
'^ At supper, three or four ounces of meat or fish ; as at dinner, one or two glasses of Bordeaux. Before retiring, if one feels the need, a glass of Bordeaux or Xeres."
Such is Banting' s treatment.
Of course it may be modified according to the habits or health of the individual. The English customs differ from ours. However, the important point is in the regularity and composition. As to the danger, I do not be-
OBESITY. 157
lieve in any. I have known persons follow it up witti good effects.
Mr. Banting advises those v/ho follow the treatment to get weighed before commencing, and re-weighed each succeeding week ; he gives a table indicating the weight that should generally accompany a certain stature.
Size. Weight.
5 feet 1 120 pounds.
126
133
136
142
145
148
155
162
169
174
178
|
5 |
2 |
|
|
5 |
3 |
|
|
5 |
4 |
|
|
5 |
5 |
|
|
5 |
6 |
|
|
5 |
7 |
|
|
5 |
8 |
|
|
5 |
9 |
|
|
5 |
10, |
|
|
5 |
11 |
|
|
6 |
158 LEANNESS.
LEANNESS.
HEE-E are a great many persons who are so fat they long to be lean — but there are a greater number who are so lean they wish to be fat. However, leanness is no indication of a bad constitution. Many lovely women grieve over their leanness, and often do the most useless things to recover flesh ; they forget how light, graceful, and easy they are in their movements. Meagre- ness is general or partial ; with women it is in the breast, and with men in the legs. I am only speaking of constitutional or accidental meagreness, which is no symptom of ill- health. Contrary to obesity, it belongs to a nervous, bilious temperament. Thin people are in general lively, excitable, easily agitat- ed, and sometimes of an extreme susceptibility. They sleep but little, have a good appetite ; yet with all that they enjoy excellent health. For a temperament disposed to leanness, a host of causes may produce it — warm cli- mates, abstinences, irregularity of meals.
LEANNESS, 159
excessive bodily labor, and still more, intel- lectual labor, late hours, abuse of pleasures, and contentions of the mind. Lorry said grief was the principal cause of it. Envious, nervous, restless, melancholy, and ambitious persons are rarely fat like those who take things easy. Nothing is more capable of producing meagreness than a mad love, and worst of all, jealousy. This last passion has been signalized in all ages, even outside of love. Andry reminds us that it exists among children, and reduces them to such an extent as to make them fretful and peevish without the parents ever discovering it„ Children often become jealous when nursing, if they see a brother or sister petted or caressed.
St. Augustine in his celebrated confession says: ''I have seen a jealous infant too young to utter a word, his little eyes flashing with anger, and his face pale with vexation, while seeing another nursing with him."
It is common to see young people grow thin without any apparent cause other than a hereditary disposition, but as they advance in life grow fleshy.
160 LEANNESS.
The means to prevent meagreness consist simply in a regular life, moderation in pleas- ures, moderate exercise, certain hours of labor, never excessive ; avoid as much as possible all that may excite the nervous sys- tem ; reasonable hours of rest, and if possible, in the midst of all the agitations of life, seek tranquillity of soul and contentment of mind.
Abundant nutritious food is also recom- mended, yet one sees daily thin persons who have excellent appetites and eat an abun- dance of animal and vegetable food, without ever growing stout. The use of meat and veg- etables, combined, moderate drinks, such as pure wine and beer, will aid and increase flesh. Pure milk taken every morning is excellent. Baths, simple and emollient, should also be used.
CHAPTER V.
BEAUTY— Resumed.
AVING examined in detail the condi- tions that contribute to "beauty, there are still a few general considerations to add.
''Question the soul in presence of beauty," said Cousin. Is it not an incontestable fact that in presence of certain objects and divers circumstances we carry this judgment : That object is beautiful. With us it is a wide- spread opinion that the sentiment and idea of beauty are things purely arbitrary and individual. For those who reason thus the 'beautiful confounds itself with the agreeable^ but all things agreeable do not appear beau-
162 BEAUTY.
tiful ; and among the former that which is most agreeable is farthest from "beautiful.
While all our senses give us agreeable sen- sations, two alone have the privilege of awakening in us the idea of beauty. ^N'o one ever said, *' What a beautiful flavor ! " "What a beautiful odor!" The sentiment of the beautiful is a special one ; like the idea of the beautiful, it is sui generis. The idea of the beautiful is the idea of the true manifested under a sensible form. Plato has admirably said : ' ' The beautiful is the splen- dor of the true." Physical beauty is purely exterior, yet beautiful to contemplate, con- sidered, as it is, a reflection of the moral. I should, however, speak particularly of woman.
"The fair sex," said Bernardin de Saint Pierre, "is particularly for those who have eyes alone. It is also for those who have a heart. It is the generating sex, who carry man in their womb for nine months at the peril of their lives ; the cherishing sex, who nourish and care for infancy ; the pious sex, that takes him to the altar ; the pacific sex.
BEAUTY. 153
who do not spill the blood of their fellow- creatures ; the consoling sex, who care for the sick without wounding them. If woman has certain qualities that essentially belong to her in all climates, in all ranks of society, in all ages of civilization, there are among others those that touch the beautiful, which need to be favored by force of cultivation and care. Thus delicacy, gentleness, the bend of the form, the lightness of movement, the grace and flexibility of attitude, the elas- ticity and fineness of the skin, the fascinating traits of the visage, can only be developed in the first ages of social life. They were blasted at their birth by persecutions, slavery, violent exercise, and continual ex- posure to inclement atmospheres.
That beauty of whose existence savages had no idea, only needed for its develop- ment social art to ameliorate the condition of woman ; and to-day what a difierence exists ! What charms are visible in the inferior ranks of society ! Yet often, on account of vicious habits, excessive labor under the in- fluence of misery and debauchery, the traits
164: BEAUTY.
have lost their fineness, the attitude l^ecoines coarse, and the expression of the visage blighted. Beauty once flown can never re- turn. Women have a far more lively phys- iognomy than men. Their sentiments are more movable ; they have far more mobility in their features. Apart from that mobility, there is in the delicacy of their muscles, the softness of their skin, the contour of their visage, something that removes the strongly accentuated features that characterize man. Advancing in life, they lose that softness and freshness, but gain in physiognomy and ex- pression what they have lost in beauty. This explains the particular charms that ma- ture and even old age often leaves on the face of woman :
Moins jeune encore la beaute nous engage, L'arfc du maintien, les graces du langage, Les dons acquis, les charmes empruntes, Donnent un lustre au couchant des beaut^s, L'amour, fidele a leurs flammes constantes, Se glisse encore, sous des rides naissantes, Et pour regner jusqu'aux demiers instants, Seme de fleurs les ruines du temps. — Bernard.
BEAUTY. 165
Many differ as to real beauty, yet with few exceptions it has been celebrated and praised in all ages. Zeuxis, who was re- quested to paint the portrait of Helen, who passed for a perfect beauty, contemplated several beautiful women, and chose from each one that which he found most remark- able. In a work written by Jean N^evisan, entitled '' Beauty and Merit of Women," thirty qualities are requisite to be a perfect beauty. Francis Corniger wrote them in Latin, and Brantome translated them into French. I cite a few lines and leave the rest to the imagination :
" Three things white — the skin, the teeth, and hands. Three black — the eyes, the eyebrows, and lashes. Three red — the lips, cheeks, and nails. Three long — the body, the hair, and hands. Three short — the teeth, the ears, and feet. Three large — the bust, the head, and brow."
• ••• •••••
Among the multitude of works written in honor of women during the revival of litera- ture in Europe, a great number are naturally dedicated to their charms and beauty. Moral-
Hi
166 BEAUTY.
ists, philosophers, and metaphysicians occu- pied themselves with the subject ; they are said to have made it superficial, and at times pretentious. Ninon, reproaching them in an interview with Bernier, said, "The philosophers have not studied us seriously ; we have been for them as for our lovers, the object of a light fancy, rather than a serious study."
But the natural history of woman, and the analysis of beauty, have been the objects of a serious study by many scholars, phj^siolo- gists, and physicians (I speak of modern times only), among whom were Thomas and Koussel, who in his work, "Moral and Physical System of Woman," enriched his details with grace, sentiment, and charm purely scientific. Also the remarkable work of Moreau de La Saithe, "Natural History of Woman," from which I borrow the re- marks also on his notes of Lavater' s Treatise. Another remarkable work on beauty was written by Andry. Beauty, however, has not escaped detraction, be it from an almost criminal exaggeration of puritanism, or like
BEAUTY. 167
the two mothers of whom Andry speaks in his ^' Orthopedie" from a religious exaggeration cruel in the extreme. Parents, said Andry, are not all like that odd mother, who seeing .her daughter's teeth were too beautiful, and fearing they would make her vain, had them all drawn out. Or like another cruel mother, who caused her child — who was beautifully formed — to continually stoop, so as not to attract worldly praise. Rene Fran9ois, in a long debate against beauty, says, ''What is all that which is called beauty ? Two bits of broken glass encased in two little hollows covered with a little leather flounce, bordered with little threads ; these are called ' eyes.' An ivory table slightly arched, covered with a satin skin without a wrinkle ; a little snow mixed with scarlet makes the cheeks, neither too full nor too hollow ; between the two is the canal that unites all grace. A little piece of bloody flesh cut in two makes the lips. I know not how many ossicles attached to the caked blood and rooted in the flesh make the gums. A flat piece of flesh inside, quite movable, allows the air to pass and facili-
168 BEAUTY.
tates our muttering; the whole surrounded with a large wig. Is not there a subject for a grand clatter?" ISTo one will doubt that it is proper to care for and preserve the grace and beauty of the human form. Nay ! it is even a duty. The first means should be devoted to health. Health, as well as beauty, may be the object of exaggerated care. Few think seriously of it until it is altered. Beauty cannot exist without the means that preserve the harmony of our organs and the freedom of our functions. It requires particular care, and that care is cosmetic.
Cosmetic, taken in the general acceptation of the word, has an importance that is worthy of marked attention. It is the art with which the ancients decorated the name of science, (scientia cosmetica Mercuriali), and belongs to medicine by its hygienic precepts.
CHAPTEE VI.
COSMETICS. HYGIEl^E — PEEFUMES — COSMETICS.
^|!p^OSM like antiquity, constitutes
an art from which results all practi- cal means employed in human dec- oration. With the ancients it formed a Ibranch of medicine in turn honored and reproached. It reached us in the middle of the most incredible abuse and exaggerated criticisms. It constitutes, I repeat, an art that requires a precise and serious examina- tion so as to end the ridiculous pretensions and attacks of which it has been the object, and which are often unjust. The Greeks — pas- sionate admirers of beauty — professed a great
I -
i02^
170 COSMETICS.
veneration for those who cultivated it. Aspasia and Cleopatra wrote a complete treatise on cosmetic. Pliny and Ovid have also transmitted to us numerous formulas. The habits of the E-oman dames were for a long time very severe under the Eepublic. During several centuries, their dress and appearance was modest and simple. The use of silk and linen was not introduced until the time of the Csesars.
Under the Emperors it is said the women seemed to forget that their clothing should cover them. The courtesans were the first who dared to adopt new fashions ; then all the ladies imitated them. The progress of corruption is the same at all times. Soon the Roman ladies carried the art of cosmetics to extremes. All the details of the toilette, the hair, teeth, softness of the skin, etc., were the object of particular care. Paint sup- planted color, and they wore false hair, etc. They had a sort of mask designed to cover' the face when at home. Juvenal said, ' ' It was the domestic face offered to their hus- bands." In the midst of the ostentatious
COSMETICS. 171
luxury wliich reigned under the Roman emperors, cosmetics became a regular in- dustry.
Seneca reproached the Roman dames for the time passed in keeping their beauty in such refined elegance and luxury. Clement of Alexandria assures us that the most elegant women pass the day between the comb and glass. True it is that cosmetic comes from and is borne everywhere, espec- ially with woman, who knows she should charm and please.
In spite of the invasion of the barbarians, the domination of the French over Gaul, the cultivation of beauty never lost its empire. When the Arabs conquered Spain, they introduced the use of perfumery and cos- metics.
Later, at the return of the Templars to the court of love, they discussed gallantry and beauty.
Albert the Great then wrote his famous ''Book of Secrets," etc., which was trans- lated into French two centuries after, and printed in 1440. The Renaissance was a
172 COSMETICS.
glorious time for cosmetics. Grace to the secrets given by Paracelsus ! Diana of Poi- tiers preserved all her charms vrhen she had far passed the age of pleasing. The secret, it is said, consisted in using a rain-vrater bath every morning.
During that time, the secrets of Italian cos- metics met with great success, and many valu- able books were written on the art ; one by the celebrated Marinello, called '' The Orna- ments of Woman." Later, Italian cosmetics and perfumery lost much when introduced by Francis I., and Catherine de Medicis. ISTeglected under Henry lY., it appeared again at the elegant court of Louis XIII., in all its luxury and eclat.
Louis XIY. detested perfumes and cosmet- ics ; so, for the second time, it completely dis- appeared from his court, to reappear under the regency, and to cosmetic is attributed the charms of the women that were so beautiful at that time. Again it reached an exagger- ated use, but became more simple under the delicate taste and influence of Marie Antoi- nette, and in spite of the extravagances of the
COSMETICS. 173
Directory, it still retains tlie same condition. It passed the Revolution of 1789, and reached the most curious exaggeration, such as ' ' Dress a la guillotine," "Pomade of Sanson," etc. ; in short, all the abuses that existed in Greece and Rome appeared in an instant. The ladies revived the perfumed baths, and Madame Tallien, stepping from a strawberry and raspberry bath, was gently rubbed with a sponge dipped in milk and perfumes. Nev- ertheless, if the use of cosmetic is generally coupled with habits of luxury, and has pushed to excess the use of paints, ridiculous fashions have almost disappeared. Women are no longer the martyrs of fashion, but, alas ! many continue to exaggerate at the expense of elegance and simplicity. At the present day, however, cosmetic holds an in- dependent code in the toilette, as well as a serious and scientific rank in the hygiene of beauty.
It is an absurdity, said Celsus, to take care of warts, spots, and freckles. Nevertheless, there is no use in trying to prevent women from taking care of their beauty.
174 COSMETICS.
Franck said, '' The art of cosmetic consisted in a great measure in tlie means of preserving and increasing the sincerity of l)eauty, and these means, united to health, demanded of prophylactic medicine incontestable right and attention."
Cosmetic considered, in short, in all the extent of its object — that is to say, cultivation of beauty — is far from limiting itself to the practice of perfumes more or less numerous. It should extend and apply itself to a multi- tude of hygienic rules, and from them take the principal means of preserving and com- bating the influences that tend to destroy it. Cosmetics are the accessory means generally designed to complete and repair the damage that beauty may receive.
CHAPTER VII.
HYGIENE.
HE first rule of hygiene is cleanliness. Ablutions liave been recommended at all times ; they have even been made a religious precept. Moses and Mohammed recommended ablutions of cold water ; and at the present day a good Mussulman says five prayers and makes ^ye ablutions daily. Pure cold water is the best medium for clean- liness. It is necessary, sometimes, to second its action by adding soap or a little eau de cologne. For the face, use cold water ; for the hands or feet, use warm or lukewarm. The ablutions for the toilet should be w^arm in winter, fresh, but never cold, in summer. For several years the use of ablutions of
176 HYGIENE.
water from eight to twelve degrees has Ibeea a custom. Lukewarm water is best for the Ibeauty of the skin.
Sponge baths are excellent. Shower-baths are also commendable, but great care should be taken afterwards to dry the body quickly, and walk rapidly for at least fifteen minutes. In whatever manner baths are used, wiping the skin perfectly dry is very important.
Baths are a natural usage, established from the most remote antiquity, and are to be found among the least civilized savages. The woollen clothing worn by the ancients ren- dered the practice of bathing necessary at all times. In fact, it was an essentially hy- gienic use with them. The Persians and the Egyptians were the first peoples among whom were found vestiges of this ancient custom.
The Homans did not build their baths till towards the end of the Republic ; but during the reign of the emperors the luxury of these establishments increased to such a point, that at the present day the baths of Caracalla, Diocletian, Agrippa, and Augus- tus are the admiration of all travellers
HYGIENE. 177
through. Italy ; and traces of that splendor are still found in several thermal establish- ments in France, Germany, and Algeria. Cold baths of from twelve to fifteen degrees are bad for the skin. A bath, for cleanliness, should be from twenty to twenty-five de- grees, and it softens and tones the skin. A river bath has the same effect.
Rain-water is the best water for bathing, after river-water. JSTevertheless, water may be artificially changed, according to the pur- pose for which it is used — as, to render it emollient and soften the skin, favor the move- ments, etc. . . . We have already recom- mended various soaps and aromatics for the toilet.
Yapor-baths have at all times been a lux- urious pleasure among the Turks, Egyptians, and Persians. With the Indians and Turks they contain various perfumes and delicate aromatics ; joined to these, frictions of the most fragr&nt oils and essences ; while sham- pooing is done by the most skilful hands. Sorbets, coffee, and tobacco are absolutely
necessary to this genre of pastime. With us 8*
1Y8 HYGIENE.
the Russian Ibatli is composed of yapor, fol- lowed by affusions and sliowers of cold water, friction, and sudation, wliich is obtained by lying on a bed, wrapped in blankets.
For tlie skin, a simple vapor-bath. — that is to say, without a shower — is best, unless the water is warm. It is better to walk than re- pose afterwards.
As to hydropathy, that consists in the employment of cold water, in different ways, to provoke sudation. It is injurious to beauty, and bad for the skin.
Among those that are praised for soothing the skin and refining the toilet of ladies, I would particularly recommend an oil or milk bath, and also the ancient custom of anoint- ing the body after the bath with perfumed oil or essence. This use still exists, particu- larly among the Orientals. The Egyptians cover themselves from head to foot with lather, perfume their hair with essence of rose, and rub their feet with pumice-stone, in order to make them hard. This practice may prove beneficial for softening the skin and removing its dryness. A simple vapor-
HYGIENE. 179
bath, with" or without shampooing, is useful and necessary.
Day is to labor ; night, to rest and renovate our strength. It is important to arrange the hours of labor according to one's strength. It is a great disadvantage to make day of night ; those who are obliged to do so, end by having weak, sunken eyes, and a pale, faded expression. In all intellectual labors, there should be certain rules.
Abuse of balls, theatres, etc., is very in- jurious.
Although sleep is called the best part of our lives, it is a bad habit to sleep too much. It tends to produce corpulency. It is easy to know what measures to adopt, according to age, sex, and temperament.
I might add as much concerning diet, but need not here speak of its quality, having already noted the results of certain food for certain persons, etc. I have already objected to alcoholic drinks.
The quantity of food should be in pro- portion with age, exercise, etc. Men gen- erally eat too much, and often irregularly.
180 H70IENE.
Business fever, united to that of exciting pleasures, lias much to do with irregular meals.
Sobriety is health ; without health there is no true beauty.
If it appear absurd not to eat a sufficiency of food, it is good sense not to give the stomach all it craves. It is an old truth that one should always ^4eave the table with room for more."
Regular meals (without eating between them), and moderate exercise after, is a sim- ple rule.
Supper, that favorite repast of our fathers, should be universally abolished. Monsieur Beaugrand reminds one of this subject in an ancient diction of the fifteenth century :
" Lever a cinq, diner a neuf, Souper a cinq, couclier a neuf, Fait vivre d'ans nonante et neuf."
Muscular exercise is conducive to health and consequently to beauty. It keeps the body in an energetic state, favors circulation, and in a word contributes to the physical
HYGIENE. 181
development and perfection of form. Thia activity, however, should be limited.
Swimming is a pleasing exercise, because its movement are regular, and assist the development of the chest. Fencing is an excellent exercise ; it favors the development of the chest, and gives to man nobility and grace.
Dancing is also a natural exercise. Even in the most remote ages, and among savages, it was a favorite one. But I am now, be it un- derstood, alluding to the dance of thirty years since, and not to the slow, stamping move- ment in the middle of a crowd, where atti- tude or space is an impossibility at the pres- ent day. I allude particularly to dancing in the open air, because in small salons^ in the midst of a crowd, the air is warm, impure ; tlierefore it is certainly detrimental to health. Bushing from the heat of a dance to cold air, has sent many a one to an early grave.
Gymnastics is one of the important branches of early education.
In ancient Greece, it was one of three distinct branches, comprised in the educa-
182 BYQIENE.
tion of youth, and one to which, they at- tached great importance.
The Greeks owed to that passion for gym- nastics the perfection of form and admirable proportion that distinguished them from all other people.
Colonel Amoros founded gymnastics in France. The choice of gymnastics is impor- tant for the end that one wishes to attain, Ibut in general they are salutary for the de- veloipment of physical beauty.
Walking is the simplest and most natural of exercises, as it necessitates alternate move- ments of the legs and feet. One may even walk lazily along, and yet succeed in accel- erating circulation, and give an agreeable warmth to the skin.
Swinging and riding are highly praised.
Equestrianism has two advantages ; which are, preventing excessive stoutness, and favoring grace of figure.
Man, deprived of natural means of protec- tion against the inclemency of the weather, supplies the deficiency by means of cloth- ing. The Greeks and Romans went habitu-
HYGIENE. 183
ally iDareliea&ed. This custom has a few disadvantages : it favors wrinkles on the forehead, and around the eyes. The head should always be covered in the open air. Many people are opposed to sleeping in nightcaps. It is a point that admits of no discussion, and has little advantage for beauty. Children should be dressed in a manner appropriate to the season and climate. It is a deplorable custom to let children go out with bare necks, bare arms, and bare legs. Nothing is so fatal to beauty as to pass from, a cold to a warm air, because it is injurious to the skin.
Women generally have their necks and throats uncovered. It is an excellent habit. It is well, however, to cover them with some light garment. It is not so with the breast, so frequently exposed to the vicissitudes of a cold air. Remarkable to state, English ladies pass for the most prudish women in Europe, and yet in no place has the fashion of low necks and bare arms made such prog- ress as in England.
Ladies' clothing is often contrary to hy-
184 HYGIENE.
giene ; head-dresses and bonnets are more ornamental tlian 'asefal. One good thing, however, is the veil, because it protects the face from the cold wind in winter, and dust and sunburn in summer. Gloves are also ex- cellent, especially kid gloves, because they protect the hands from the cold, as well as preserve and soften the skin.
For a century, physicians and philosophers have occupied themselves with the advan- tage and disadvantage of corsets. Buffon and Rousseau declared legitimate war against those whalebone waist-boards that deformed and pressed the waists of our grandmothers. Thank God, they are no longer worn.
The Greek and Koman ladies, contrary to the opinion of Eousseau, laced and strapped their waists so much, that the satiric authors of the time made fun of them. That cus- tom disappeared in modern times. Under Henry II., in the middle of the sixteenth cen- tury, whalebone coiisets were worn, which imprisoned the breast in a painful manner. Since the Kevolution, corsets have been modified, and are the same as under Cath-
HYGIENE. 185
erine de Medicis. But as it is, when laced tight, especially on young persons, they de- form the waist, press, and impede the growth of the breasts. Bouvier said, ^ ' Corsets shonld never be stiif," nor tightened across the breast ; the whalebones shonld be thin and flexible, with ample room on the side for the hips. Young girls should not wear cor- sets before the age of puberty, nnless they are delicate, and tend to stoop. Physicians say corsets should not be worn until the form is completely developed. In spite of the changes made in corsets, in spite of the nnmerous warnings given concerning them, hundreds of women continue to lace and press their waists, at the price of internal suffering and weakness.
Even the form of the shoe has varied in all times and among all peoples. The Hebrews only wore shoes in the country. The Romans had two kinds of shoes, sandals and calceus^ that completely covered their feet and resem- bled our half-boots.
Men wore black ones, and women gener-
186 HYGIENE.
ally white, sometimes red bound or embel- lished with pearls.
Henry IV. rode horseback so much, that he wore boots, and then all the captains fol- lowed him.
Louis XIII. wore his boots Spanish fash- ion, tight fit, high, large, and the tops falling over below the knee.
During the reign of Louis XYI. and in 1789, the boots that were discarded under Louis XIY. were worn in reunions, assem- blies, and ceremonies.
The boots of the present day are high and low. Boots are better than shoes, because they afford more protection for the feet, and strengthen the ankles and aid the step.
Independent of their incontestable utility, for a long time they were more governed by fashion than comfort. Instead of maintain- ing the foot, and protecting it against humid- ity and cold, they were only made to make the foot appear as small as possible. In general, shoes should be well adapted to the form of the feet and legs. As to the material used, it necessarily varies according to the climate
HYGIENE. 187
and season, as well as to tlie susceptibility of individuals. One thing should be borne in mind, that they are made to protect the feet and preserve the health.
I have already spoken of the disadvantages resulting from high-heeled boots. Having passed in review what touches the physical education, perhaps it is permissible to con- clude with a few words on the education properly called by Montaigne the moral insti- tution of man.
An educated man is not always a learned man : the perfection of education is instruc- tion mingled with politeness, culture of mind joined to culture of character. Use, example, and acts are the best masters in education.
Education begins from the cradle. Woman is man's first teacher. The happiest educa- tion is that which retains traces of the gentle and affectionate authority of woman. A child grows up under the gentle, benevolent authority of its mother. Ardent passions are moderated, bad inclinations are corrected, gentle qualities of heart and character are de- veloped. Later on, when replaced by strange
188 . HYGIENE,
authority, wlien the ideas are fully awakened, this early pious influence will continue to follow him on through life.
It is in early age that good examples and impressions seize the character and root them- selves in the mind for a lifetime. Common education, it is said, is the prelude of life. A child destined to live the life of the world, should live in the world, and the world of youth is the college.
But is man destined to live in youth's world % Assuredly not. The world of youth is the world of frank simplicity, natural ideas, and generous instincts.
In the world of youth characters find all their purity, as well as all their roughness. College education is indispensable to youth. There the ideas enlarge, the sentiment of jus- tice becomes developed, the passions are controlled, and often, by force of discipline, deadened ; generosity and love of country are also there developed. To moderate that exuberance in point of view of men' s soci- ety, that individual action, so salutary, re- quires another thing. Is common education
HYGIENE. 189
really a necessary preparation, particularly efficacious, to acts and moral duties of social life ? I do not believe it. If it is, there one finds the means of crushing vanity and pride, stimulating laziness, moderating jealousy and anger. It is not there that the child will find the germ of that gentle, benevolent charm, if for no other reason than that he has not reached maturity ; later, he will learn the part he has to take in life.
Such are the mutual wants of society. Then college education should be moderated by family education ; in all times and everywhere it should be present with its influence. Later, with reason and heart the child becomes a man, and will freely take his place in social life, and occupy it with as much dignity as if he had submitted longer to the tender ma- ternal authority of family education.
I have had occasion to mention several times, in this little book, the influence, exam- ples, and acts of private life, and the indeli- ble impression they leave on the mind of youth. The movements and attitudes of the body awaken correlative sentiments ; and if
190 HYGIENE.
from our attitudes spring our instincts, said Gratiolet, one will soon understand the im- portance that respectable people attach to good manners. Grood manners are forms of virtue, and he who in infancy has contracted the habit of good language, will not easily speak the language of evil.
Malebranche tells of a young servant who assisted a surgeon to bleed the feet of his master ; the moment the lance touched the skin, he was seized with a pain so acute in his own foot, that had the operation been performed on him, he could not have felt it more than he did.
The sight of joy inspires the idea of joy, that of grief oppresses the heart, that of anger alters the traits, etc.
In all forms, with few exceptions, when later regrettable imperfections are to be de- plored, parents are most to blame for neglect- ing their duty during infancy and youth.
CHAPTER VIII.
PERFUMES AND ODOES.
MONGr mankind, the sense of smell is ■^^ less perfect than among most animals,
for with them it is sometimes their principal instinctive organ. Odor is for man a source of pleasure. Rousseau and Zimmerman said that odor is the sense of imagination. Perfumes add to the advantage of beauty. The care which certain women take to perfume themselves, is a proof that voluptuous ideas are united to flowers, per- fumes, etc. ' ' Fulcite mefloribits^ stipate me mails quia amore langueo^^^ cried the young Shunamite to his companions in the "Canticle of Canticles" ("surround me with flowers,
192 PERFUME8 AND ODORS.
for I die of love)." The poets attributed to odor the power of inspiring in the soul a gentle intoxication.
However, to some persons, all odors are disagreeable, and the fragrance of flowers has often had dangerous effects. Above all things, one should avoid sleeping in a room where there are flowers.
The Marshal de Richelieu, during his de- clining years, lived in a most fragrant atmo- sphere, wafted by bellows through his apart- ment ; and incredible to state, to this day there are habits that approach this extrava- gant luxury. I saw in Paris, a few years since, a lady who passed the greater part of her time on a sofa, in the midst of the most fragrant flowers, and who slept continually in. an apartment filled with flowers and plants. After a short visit to this lady, I left with a headache, a sick stomach, and all symptoms of real poison ; while she lived for years in that atmosphere — an existence which cannot be explained, unless her sense of smell was completely deadened, a thing observed among persons, who, by profession or habit, live
PEBFUME8 AND ODORS. I93
amidst odors. There are some very odd examples, a repulsion for such and such a perfume — or even for tlie mildest fra- grance.
Many persons are disagreeably impressed by the smell of flaxseed. Orfila tells of a lady who became so overpowered with its smell, that she swooned, and had tumefaction of the face. Many persons who dislike odors consider them dangerous. It is all imagina- tion. Dr. Capellini tells of a lady who could not suffer the odor of a rose, and fell ill on receiving the visit of a lady friend who wore one; yet that fatal flower was artificial. Perfumes, 'tis true, have served to disguise and even compose poisons.
The ancients were refined in the art of mys- terious killing. In the midst of most absurd stories, which tradition tells us, many are proven true. Agreeable odors are far from producing bad effects. ' ' Odors, ' ' said Hippo- lyte Cloquet, ''seem to change the nature of ideas, and vivify the thoughts.' '
Who has not more than once, like J. J.
Housseau, felt a universal moral and physical 9
194 PERFUMES AND ODORS.
satisfaction on breathing the air of the coun- try filled with the fragrance of flowers % Who has not, when breathing the fresh air of spring, felt its gentle influence in the midst of the balmy atmosphere, and been pleased to remember, in a happy though melancholy contemplation, the image of a friend who is no more, or form for the future projects of happiness that ambition cannot poison with its lying tendency.
Perfumes have various origins. The tem- ples of the ancients, the first churches, were always infected by emanations from the animals sacrificed, and bodies interred there- in. They destroyed these disagreeable odors by burning incense and perfuming tlie altars. Moses carefully prescribed the perfume which should fill the tabernacle with its aromas ; it was a mixture reserved to Gfod. Another origin is more poetic — that they re- ceived life from the sunshine, and rose with it to perfume the air.
Purification, unctions of oil, perfumes, and ablutions formed the basis of ancient cult- ure. The Chinese used perfumes for domes-
PERFUMES AND ODORS. 195
tic use as well as pleasure. Whatever may "be their origin, these perfumes were burned before the gods in all the temples.
Myrrh and incense were among the pres- ents that the Wise Men offered the Messiah. Moses taught the Egyptian priests and schol- ars the science of perfumes. The Bible and its commentaries contain numerous cosmetic formulas which are in use at the present day. For a long time hygienic prescriptions were disguised under a religious form. The cus- tom of using fragrant substances is estab- lished in our churches, but not so much carried on as formerly. At the baptism of Clovis fragrant tapers were burned ; and the Roman church about that time made so great a use of perfume, that she had lands in Syria and other Oriental provinces which were expressly used for the cultivation of per- fumes. The wealthy Greeks had perfuming pans to send forth fragrance wliile they feasted. From Greece they spread to Rome. Notwithstanding their sale was rigorously prohibited, their use continued to increase. They employed them in the most extravagant
196 PERFUMES AND ODORS.
manner in their baths, sleeping-rooms, and "beds ; they also wasted them in all public feasts. The air was embalmed with their vapors when Pompey entered Naples and Antony Alexandria. Plutarch tells us of a supper given by Otho to Nero. On all sides tubes of gold and silver, filled with perfumes of great price, sent forth such a profuse odor as to moisten the repast. At the funeral of his wife Poppsea, Nero had burned on the funer- al pile more incense than Arabia could pro- duce in a year. France in its turn increased and opposed without ever doing away with it, even when in the midst of a thousand vi- cissitudes.
Nevertheless, since the time of Marie An- toinette it has sustained a real importance in ceremonies and feasts, as well as in particular uses. Napoleon I. was very fond of per- fumes ; he sprinkled himself with eau de cologne every morning. The Empress Jose- phine was passionately fond of flowers.
We are not, however, like the ancients, connoisseurs of pleasure, nor, like them, do
PERFUMES AND ODORS,
197
we passionately seek perfumes. But we do generally admit this maxim, that sensation is as necessary to the soul as exercise is to the body.
CHAPTER IX;
COSMETICS— Resumed.
M
jOSMETICS comprise all substances designed to preserve and restore if not aid beauty. I have already given several formulas, with their special applica- cation. But cosmetics are so numerous, that .it rests with one to choose among those that hygiene recommends, by indicating the ob- ject for which they are intended.
COSMETICS FOR THE SKIN.
COLD CREAM.
Almond Oil 5 ounces.
Spermaceti • 1 ounce, 1 drachm.
White Wax i ounce.
Rose-water 1 ounce.
Eau de Cologne 2 drachms.
Tincture of Benzoin 18 grains.
C0S3IETICS FOR THE SKm. 199
COLD CREAM A LA ROSE.
Almond Oil 1 pint.
Kose-water 1 pint.
White Wax 7 drachms.
Spermaceti 7 drachms.
Essence of Rose 16 grains.
CUCUMBER POMADE.
Essence of Cucumber '
Spermaceti - V Almost equal quantities.
Fresh Lard ^
COLD CREAM A LA VIOLETTE.
Oil of Violets. 1 pint.
Violet Water 1 pint.
Wax 7 drachms, /
Spermaceti 7 drachms.
Essence of Almonds. 5 drops.
Mix caref uUy.
sultan's CREAM.
OH of Benzoin 1 ounce.
Oil of Poppies 2 drachms.
White Wax 1 drachm.
Spermaceti 1 drachm.
Flowers of Benzoin 1 drachm.
Extract of Orange Flowers. .1 scruple, 7 grains.
Blancs de Perles 1 ounce.
Essence of Koses 9 grains.
200 COSMETICS FOR THE SKIN.
Almonds, pounded 2 ounces.
Venetian Lact -J ounce.
Peruvian Balm 2 grains.
Mix according to art.
MILK OP ROSES.
Sweet Almonds, pounded 2 ounces.
Rose-water 3 gills.
Alcohol 1 ounce, 2 drachms.
Windsor Soap 1 drachm.
White Wax 1 drachm.
Sweet OU 1 drachm.
Essence of Bergamot 1 drachm.
Essence of Lavender 9 grains.
Essence of Roses 5 grains.
Mix it in pure water, and anoint or bathe the face and neck.
GLYCERINE LOTION.
Orange-flower Water 1 quart.
Glycerine , ^ pound.
Borax 7 drachms.
COSMETIC LOTION.
Black Cherry Water, distiUed 1 quart.
Cucumber Pomade 3 ounces.
Almond Soap 4 drachms.
Mix the soap with the pomade, and add water by degrees.
COSMETICS FOR THE SEHf. 201
GOWLAND LOTION.
Bitter Almonds 3 ounces.
Water 1 pint.
Corrosive Sublimate 2 grains.
Salts of Ammonia 1 scruple.
Alcohol 4 drachms.
Black Cherry Water 4 drachms.
MILK OF ALMOND LOTION.
Pounded Almonds 4 ounces.
Rose-water ^ pint.
Corrosive Sublimate 3 grains.
Carbonate of Potash 11 grains.
Mix well.
COSMETIC WATEB.
Bitter Almonds 1 pound.
Water 2 quarts.
DistU, and add —
Vinegar Rosat 1 quart.
Essence of Raspberry 1 drachm.
Essence of Honey 1 ounce.
Essence of Jessamine 1 ounce, 4 drachms.
LAVENDER "WATER..
Oil of Lavender 4 ounces.
Alcohol, rectified 2 quarts.
Rose-water ^ pint.
9
«
202 COSMETICS FOR THE SKm.
The following is excellent :
EAU DE COLOGNE.
Alcohol 3 pints.
Volatile Oil of Lemon 1 ounce.
Volatile Oil of Cedrat 3 drachms.
Volatile Oil of Lavender 1 drachm.
Volatile Oil of Bergamot 6 drachms.
Tincture of Benzoin 1 ounce, 3 drachms.
Strain it, and let it stand for some time.
AKOMATIC VINEGAR FOR THE TOILETTE.
Camphorated Vinegar 2^ pints.
Camphor 1 ounce.
Mix well.
CUCUMBER VIIfEGAR.
Cucumbers 2 ounces.
Strong Vinegar 1 quart.
Let it steep twenty-five days ; then strain it.
RASPBERRY VINEGAR.
Vinegar (strong) 1 quart.
Easpberries, either fresh or dry 3 pints.
Let it steep fifteen days, then strain.
ROSE VINEGAR.
Vinegar (strong) 6 giUs.
Eed Roses ., 1 ounce.
Steep eight days, and strain.
COSMETICS FOR THE SKIK 203
VIRGINAL VINEGAB.
White Vinegar ) ^ , .
•^ . , . , y Equal parts.
Benzoin, pulverized )
Steep it eight days, and strain ; drop it in the water
for the toilette, and it becomes milky white.
These vinegars are excellent for clearing the skin,
and making it firm and solid.
POWDER FOR PARTS THAT ARE CHAFED.
Powdered Lycopode 1 ounce.
Oxide of Zinc i ounce.
Mix them. With the aid of a puff or hare's foot, touch the parts chafed by walking.
BLANC DE PERLES (FOR THE THEATRE).
Rose or Orange-flower V/ater 1 pint.
Oxide of Bismuth 3 ounces, 4 drachms.
Pound them very fine, and mix.
ROUGES DE TOILETTE.
Rouges de Toilette are made of various colors by mixing different proportions of pure carmines with pulverized talc. 1 to 2 scruples of carmine for 2 to 3 ounces of talc.
204 COSMETICS FOB THE HAIR.
COSMETICS FOR THE HAIR.
Pure Marrow 4 ounces.
Oil of Almonds 4 ounces.
Oil of Palm 2 drachms.
Essence of Cloves 4 grains.
Essence of Bergamot 1 drachm.
Essence of Lemon 2 drachms.
POMADE OF beak's OIL.
Oil a la Rose 1 drachm.
Orange Flower 1 drachm.
Sweet Oil 1 drachm.
Oil of Tuberoses 1 drachm.
on of Jessamine 1 drachm.
OU of Almonds 1 ounce, 1 drachm.
Essence of Bergamot 1 scruple.
Essence of Cloves 18 grains.
Fresh Lard 2 ounces.
Steep aU the pomades together, then mix the oil and add the essences.
POMADE TO PREVENT BALDNESS.
Extract of Quinine 1 scruple.
Sweet Almond Oil 2 drachms.
Beef Marrow 6 drachms.
Essence of Bergamot 6 drops.
Peruvian Balm 8 drops.
Mix with care, and anoint the head on retiring.
COSMETICS FOR THE HAIR. 205
The following oils are excellent to prevent falling of the hair :
Beef Marrow, Oil of Almonds, Oil of Nuts. Mix, and use at will.
MACASSAR OIL.
Oil of Turnsole 3 ounces.
Goose Oil 4 drachms.
Storax Liquid '
Essence of Thyme >- 2 drachms each.
Balm of Cocoa ^
Essence of Neroli )
>• 1 drachm each. Essence of Roses \
Peruvian Balm 11 grains.
Let all the ingredients steep and remain in a moderately warm place.
PERFUME FOR REMOVING GREASE FROM THE HAIR.
Wheat Bran, perfectly dry 1 pound.
Iris Powder 2 ounces.
Pass through a sieve.
Powder the hair at night, brash next morning, and use a fine comb. This per- fume is often put in little scent bags and worn under the armpits. To preserve cer-
206 COSMETICS FOR TEE HAIR.
tain conditions of the hair, retain its lustre, and keep it in curl, there are various cos- metics called Jixateurs or bandolines.
Adraganth Gum 2 draclims.
Water 1 pint.
Let it steep five or six hours ; strain it through a piece of muslin, and add —
Alcohol 3 ounces.
Rose-water 10 drops.
One may also use psyllrum gum ; and better still, quince seed with a little eau de cologne.
POMADE TO PREVENT ALOPECY.
Precipitate of Sulphur in a hydrate state, 1 drachm.
Prepared Beef Marrow 4 drachms.
Bum 3 drachms.
Mix, and aromatize with Balm of Tolu.
SCHNEIDER'S POMADE.
Lemon Juice 1 drachm.
Extract of Quinine 2 drachms.
Tincture of Cantharides 1 drachm.
Oil of Cedrate 1 scruple.
Oil of Bergamot 1 grain.
Beef Marrow 3 ounces.
Mix well, and after having washed the scalp well
with pure soap and water, anoint it with this
pomade.
COSMETICS FOR TEE HAIR, 207
steige's pomade.
Balm of Cocoa 1 ounce, 2 drachms.
Quinine 1 drachm,
Olive Oil , 5 drachms.
Tannin 2 grains.
Aromatic Alcohol 2 drachms.
Mix well ; anoint the head morning and night.
pomade to blacken the hair.
Acetate of Silver 2 drachms.
Cream of Tartar 2 drachms.
Ammonia 4 drachms.
Lard 4 drachms.
Apply tMs pomade with the aid of a brush. To remove the stains it may leave on the fingers or forehead, use a little solu- tion of iodide of potassium or hyposulphate of soda or chloride.
WATER FOR DYEING THE HAIR BLACK.
HAIR DYE.
Oil of Wax 3 ounces.
Gall Nuts i ounce.
Boil till the nuts break, and add ;
Basalt c 1 drachm.
Gem Salt 1 drachm.
White Wax 1 drachm.
Cloves 1 scruple.
Pulverized Alum 1 drachm.
Boil it a second time for five minutes, then strain.
208 COSMETICS FOE THE HAIR
BLONDE HAIR DYE.
WMte Wine 3 gills.
Rhubarb (dry) 5 ounces.
Boil them together until reduced to half the quantity. Strain it, and wash the hair, and let it dry.
ANOTHER.
Distilled Water of Plantain 1 gill.
Nitrate of Silver 2 drachms.
Bismuth 4 drachms.
Acetate of Iron 2 drachms.
Mix. Bathe the hair, after having removed all grease.
MINERAL DYE.
Acetate of Silver 7 drachms.
Rose-water 1 giU.
Before using this water, the head should "be washed in a solution of alkaline of soda or potassium. When the hair is well dried, apply the dye with an old soft tooth-brush. This dye will take effect in a few hours.
COSMETICS FOR THE MOUTH. 209
COSMETICS FOR THE MOUTH.
TOOTH POWDEB.
Calcinated Magnesia -J ounce.
Sulphate of Quinine 9 grains.
Carmine SuflB.cient quantity.
Essence of Mint 3 drops.
TOBIAC'S POWDER.
Carbonate of Lime 1 drachm.
Magnesia 2 drachms.
Sugar 1 drachm.
Pulverized Cream of Tartar 1 scruple.
Essence of Mint 1 drop.
ENGLISH TOOTH POWDER.
White Chalk i pound.
Pulverized Camphor 3 ounces.
Cork tight in small bottles.
CORAL TOOTH POWDER.
Pulverized Coral 1 ounce.
Lake Carmine 1 grain.
Sulphate of Quinine 1 grain.
Volatile Oil of Mint 2 drops.
Mix well together, and make a fine paste.
ELIXIR FOR THE TEETH.
Distnied Alcohol of Rosemary ^ pint.
Camomile Root (bruised) 1 ounce.
210 COSMETICS FOB THE MOUTH.
Steep and strain. Mix this elixir with double the quantity of water to rinse the mouth.
A complete list of washes, elixirs, powders, opiates, and dentrifices, would be intermin- able. Therefore I give a list of those mostly employed.
COSMETICS FOR A BAD BREATH.
Brandy. 1 gill.
Mint-water, or Spearmint Tea 1 gill.
Chloride of Soda 6 drachms.
Mix.
LOZENGES FOR THE BREATH.
Powdered Coffee 1 ounce, 3 drachms.
Vegetable Charcoal i ounce.
Powdered Sugar | ounce.
Vanilla ^ ounce.
Gum Arabic Sufficient quantity.
Make them each of about eighteen grains, take five or bIx a day, and the breath will become sweet.
COSMETICS FOB TEE HANDS, 211
COSMETICS FOR THE HANDS.
POWDER FOR THE HANDS.
Powdered Horse-chestnuts | pound.
Carbonate of Potassium 2 drachms.
Bitter Almond Powder i pound.
Iris 1 ounce.
Essence of Bergamot 1 drachm.
Mix.
ALMOND PASTE FOR THE HANDS.
Almonds, sweet, peeled J pound.
Almonds, bitter i pound.
Lemon-juice 2 ounces.
MUk 1 ounce.
Sweet Oil of Almonds 3 ounces.
Brandy 1 gill.
Mix with great care.
POWDEE FOR THE ITAILS.
The best is composed of pure oxide of tin, perfumed with essence of lavender, and colored with carmine.
It is applied on the nails with the finger, | or a little brush covered with leather — called in French poUssoir.
CHAPTER X.
VARIOUS PERFUMES.
ESSENCES FOR THE HANDKERCHIEF.
KOTAL ESSENCE.
Ambergris 2 scruples.
Musk 1 scruple.
Civet 1 graia.
Volatile OU of Roses 1 grain.
Volatile OH of Cumamon 1 grain.
on of Rhodes' Wood 1 grain.
OU of Orange Flowers 1 grain.
Carbonate of Potash. 1 grain.
Alcohol 3 ounces.
Let it steep fifteen days,